Document klickitatcounty_gov_doc_837b968207

Landowner Handbook A Guide to Best Management Practices in Skamania and Klickitat Counties Underwood Conservation District ---PAGE BREAK--- Acknowledgements About the cover: Mt. Adams Country photo by © Darryl Lloyd/LongshadowPhoto.com Handbook by UCD Staff: Adrianne Zuckerman, Jim White, Tova Cochrane, Jamie Gomez, Mary Todd Haight, Ann Gross and UCD AmeriCorps Interns: Emma Bishop, Christine Williams, and Brendon Lamoreaux A Special Thanks to Collaborators Including: Catherine J. Flick, Columbia River Gorge NSA USDA Forest Service Justin Bush, Skamania County Weed Department Marty Hudson, Klickitat County Weed Department Todd Murray, WSU Extension, Skamania County Skamania County Planning Department Darryl Lloyd/LongshadowPhoto.com Patrick Quigley, Express Color Funding for this project has been provided in part through EPA Grant No. C9-000449-04 to the Department of Ecology from the United States Environmental Protection Agency. The Department of Ecology allocates and administers funding for this project. The contents of this document do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of either the United States Environmental Protection Agency or the Department of Ecology, nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for their use. Reproduction of this booklet in whole or in part is encouraged with permission from Underwood Conservation District. To receive a copy of this publication contact the Underwood Conservation District: Underwood Conservation District 170 NW Lincoln Park Center P.O. Box 96 White Salmon, WA 98672 (509) 493-1936 w3.gorge.net/ucd [EMAIL REDACTED] ---PAGE BREAK--- Landowner Handbook A Guide to Best Management Practices in Skamania and Klickitat Counties Underwood Conservation District First printing: May 2009 ---PAGE BREAK--- Acknowledgements……………………………………………………………………Inside Cover Introduction, Developing a 1 About Underwood Conservation 2 About the Region 4 Living in Rural 5 Living Near Lakes and Streams 6 Water 8 Native Plants 10 Common Tree 12 13 Invasive 14 Wildlife and 16 Living with 18 Forest 20 Horticulture Resources Livestock and Pasture Management 24 Recycling, Solid Waste and Outdoor 26 27 Regulatory Considerations and 28 Table of Contents ---PAGE BREAK--- Introduction, Developing a Plan 1 The Conservation Plan Defining your goals is the first and most difficult task in developing a Conservation Plan for your land. UCD encourages all landowners to develop some form of plan in order to help you achieve your goals. Some tax des- ignations or funding programs will also require a land management plan. The Conservation Planning process is an exchange of ideas between the landowner and con- servation professionals resulting in decisions by the landowner. These decisions often result in workable, affordable activities that protect and improve soil, wa- ter, and other natural resources in addition to working towards the landowner’s goals for the property. The Conservation Plan is a dynamic operating structure that can be modified as landowner objectives or conservation needs change. How to Start a Plan If you are interested in creating a Conservation Plan for your property, or have general questions on how to be a good land manager, contact UCD. A Field Technician will be happy to talk to you and can arrange a site visit to your property. The Technician will work with you to define your short and long term goals for your prop- erty. Some example goals are: “create a screen to block view of road,” “control Canada thistle infestation,” or “manage timber for highest yield.” Once your goals have been defined, the next step in the Conservation Planning process is to inventory your natural resources. This includes mapping your soils, identifying plants or invasive weed infestations, evalu- ating wildlife habitat quality or streamside conditions. UCD can assist with this step of the planning process. Finally, a list of recommended best management prac- tices is developed with an associated timeline for imple- mentation. In no way is the landowner obligated to the recommendations in the plan; the plan is designed to be an adaptable and dynamic tool. A plan can be as simple as a single sheet of paper or as detailed as you want to make it. The basic components generally include: the landowner’s goals, an inventory of natural resources, an aerial photo, map, or sketch of property, and a summary of recommended best manage- ment practices and planned schedule for implementa- tion. Purpose of the Landowner Handbook There is a lot to know about owning and managing land- after all, whether you inherited or bought your property, it didn’t come with an instruction manual. The purpose of this handbook is to provide tools you can use to achieve your goals for your land and offer ideas on where to find more information. The con- cepts in this handbook have been adapted from best management practices developed by landowners and conservation professionals to enable individuals to meet their goals for their land while simultaneously protecting soil, water, air, plant, and animal resources. The best management practices and ideas provided here are tips of the iceberg. Please continue your re- search beyond this handbook or call Underwood Con- servation District (UCD) for additional information. Our Goal Our goal is to provide information and resources that enable you, landowners or land managers, to achieve your goals for your land and conserve natural re- sources. What Are Your Goals? Identifying what you want in your land is a necessary first step for every landowner. Landowners and land managers can have many different goals, such as rais- ing livestock, farming, timber production, providing wildlife habitat, or simply preserving an intact ecosys- tem. Each of these require some level of active man- agement, whatever the acreage. Some questions to ask yourself: • How would you like your land to look? • What uses can the land support? • Where does your water come from? What is the quality of the water? • What type of trees do you have? Are the trees healthy? Do you want more or fewer trees? • Do you have or plan on doing any farming? • Do you have or plan on having livestock? • Do you have native plants? Invasive weeds? • What is the quality of fish and/or wildlife habitat? • Would you like to attract wildlife to your prop- erty? • Do you need to designate your land use for tax purposes? • Do you have a succession plan for your land in or- der to maintain your goals and vision when/if you want to sell or pass it down in the family? ---PAGE BREAK--- 2 About Underwood Conservation District By now you’re probably wondering why we want to help you achieve your goals for your land and natural resources. Because that is our mission: to enhance the level of natural resource stewardship for landowners, managers and resource users in the district. What is UCD? One of 47 districts within the state of Washington, Underwood Conservation District (UCD) covers Skamania County and the western portion of Klickitat County. UCD is a legal subdivision of state govern- ment that administers programs for the productive use and conservation of natural resources. Within its boundaries, UCD provides both landown- ers and agencies with technical assistance to increase land productivity, enhance water quality and improve other features of our natural resources. UCD is non- regulatory and only works with volunteer landowners. Never will UCD report a problem or violation to a regulatory agency; instead we work with landowners to help them come into, or stay in, compliance with existing environmental laws. What assistance does UCD Offer? UCD can provide technical assistance and possibly financial assistance with on-the-ground projects, to assist with issues, such as: ; Farm and dairy planning ; Forest management and road maintenance ; Native tree & shrub establishment ; Streambank stabilization and enhancement ; Soil improvements and composting ; Stormwater run-off and erosion control ; Natural resource education in local schools ; Invasive weed management ; Farm and forestland preservation ; Environmental monitoring ; Clean-up events Location Since its beginnings, UCD has grown to encompass the western portion of Klickitat County, west of the Klickitat River, except for most of the City of Bingen, and all of Skamania County, except for the City of Stevenson. Our office is located in White Salmon. History On July 1st, 1940, concerned orchardists and farmers from the area around Underwood Mountain gath- ered to discuss irrigation needs, the decline of forest productivity, and the impact that settlement and de- velopment was having on their land - increasing soil erosion and degrading water quality. This meeting resulted in a partnership between the Soil Conserva- tion Service (now called the Natural Resources Con- servation Service) and private landowners. Under- wood Conservation District was formed to find fea- sible solutions to the community’s land-use con- cerns. Addressing Local Needs UCD is supervised by a five-member board. The Board of Supervisors is composed of local citizens, farmers, and forest landowners who volunteer their time to guide the efforts of the district. Each month the board meets to discuss current projects and is- sues, providing guidance and direction for the dis- trict staff. Board meetings are open to the public and held on the third Tuesday of each month beginning at 7 p.m. at the UCD office in the Park Center Building at 170 NW Lincoln, White Salmon. What is Underwood Conservation District? ---PAGE BREAK--- About Underwood Conservation District, cont’d 3 Annual Events On Washington State’s Arbor Day (the 2nd Wednes- day in April), UCD holds an informational Open House and Free Tree Giveaway. The purpose of this event is to inform local landowners of our services and get input about what kinds of programs we might pro- vide for our district. Outreach and Education UCD works with several local schools and partnering agencies to assist and promote natural resource educa- tion to children. We have also hosted and helped with a variety of educational seminars for adults to teach about livestock management, invasive weed manage- ment, soil testing and improvements, forestry man- agement, and much more. UCD frequently writes informational articles in local newspapers and publica- tions to help provide resources and announce events. Facilitation of Stakeholder Groups UCD has facilitated numerous groups in the past to assist with the coordination of natural resource infor- mation and activities. The White Salmon River Watershed Management Committee was formed in 1993 to help address con- cerns of the local community regarding the quality of water in the White Salmon River watershed. This group’s participants represent the diversity of the local population including foresters, dairy farmers, and rec- reational providers. The group meets quarterly to dis- cuss current projects in the watershed. The Jewett Streamkeepers is a group which focuses on enhancing stewardship within the Jewett Creek wa- tershed, which runs through the towns of White Salmon and Bingen. meetings are held the first Thursday of the month at 5pm at UCD’s office. The Wind River Watershed Council, formed in 1997 as a group of stakeholder representatives that provide information and coordinate project work within the Wind River Basin. How We Can Help You Underwood Conservation District is interested in protecting soil, water and other natural resources by working with volunteer landowners in site planning and project implementation. If the landowner would like assistance implement- ing any project that will benefit natural resources, contact Underwood Conservation District for fur- ther technical and financial assistance. Students learn about water quality by collecting and identify- ing macroinvertebrate (water bug) samples, which can indicate levels of pollution. This stream has a well vegetated riparian zone that provides shade and reduces erosion ---PAGE BREAK--- 4 About the Region Climate The Pacific Ocean and the topography created by the Cascade Mountain range dictate the weather and cli- mate of our region. Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams are two major features in the Cascade Range in southern Washington. Clouds and moisture from the Pacific Ocean, propelled by winds, drop water in the form of rain or snow as they ascend over the Cascade Moun- tains. This contributes to the substantial amount of precipitation received in Skamania County. The ma- jority of Klickitat County lies east of the Cascades and within the rain shadow created by the Cascade Mountains. Elevations range widely between 40 ft. above sea level on the shores of the Columbia River of Bonneville Dam to 12,276 ft. at the top of Mt. Adams. Due to the variety of elevations and precipitation levels in the Columbia Gorge, many dif- ferent micro-climates exist, influencing where plant and animal species occur. This creates great diversity in the ecosystems throughout the Columbia Gorge. Watersheds The land within Underwood Conservation District flows into the Columbia River, one of the largest wa- tersheds in the U.S. Awareness and stewardship of all creeks and rivers will contribute to the health of water bodies. The watersheds in Klicki- tat County within the UCD’s boundary include: the White Salmon River, Catherine Creek, Major Creek, Klickitat River, Rattlesnake Creek, Trout Lake Creek and Jewett Creek. Major watersheds of Skamania County include the Washougal River, Wind River, Lewis River, Rock Creek, Little White Salmon River and the White Salmon River. See page 7 for more in- formation on watersheds. Human History in the Area The Klickitat and Chinook tribes have inhabited the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge for several thousand years. Learn more about the tribes by visit- ing the Yakama Cultural Heritage Center in Top- penish or yakamamuseum.com. The first wave of settlers arrived in during the 1850’s, encouraged by the donation land claims, and later by the Homestead Act. Early occupations for settlers included cutting wood to sell to the passing steamships, commercial fishing for salmon and stur- geon, farming, and logging. Skamania County was formed in March of 1854. The timber industry was the driving force for Skamania County’s economy until the early 1990’s, when concerns over habitat loss and logging practices slowed the industry. The county's population is ~11,000. The majority of resi- dents live in the southern part of the county along the Columbia River. Klickitat County was formed in 1859. Timber, sheep and cattle grazing, and alumi- num smelting have been important economic activi- ties. Two rivers, the Klickitat and the White Salmon, are designated Wild & Scenic through parts of Klickitat County. The county’s population is ap- proximately 20,530. Growth rates for both counties average 1-1.5% per year. Land use Skamania County covers 1,656 square miles. The county is about 90% forested, and 80% of the land in the county is in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and the Mount Saint Helens National Volcanic Monument. Major land uses include forestry and wood products, farming and orchard lands. Klickitat County covers 1,908 square miles. Timber, orchards, cattle range and wheat production are some of the major land uses. Most recreational and economic activities in the Columbia Gorge center around or depend on the rivers, mountains, and regional cli- mate in some way or another. Approximate Annual Precipitation Skamania/Prindle 70” Underwood 47” Upper Washougal 56” Trout Lake 50” North Bonneville 70” Glenwood 30” Stevenson 90” White Salmon 36” Stabler 99” Klickitat 20” Orographic Lift Cascade Mountains Pacific Ocean ---PAGE BREAK--- Living in Rural Areas 5 Rural Living Country living demands self sufficiency and the hard work of being a responsible land steward. Services may not be the same as in urban areas and cooperation with neighbors can be necessary, especially during winter storms. Agriculture: A Way of Life Much of the rural land in Klickitat and Skamania Counties is actively used for growing crops, feeding livestock, and providing lumber and mineral re- sources. Agricultural operations common within the district include forestry and wood products, orchards and vineyards, cattle and range operations, dairies, goat and alpaca farms and organic fruit and vegetable farms. Agricultural businesses are an important as- pect of Klickitat and Skamania County economies. If you choose to live in a rural area, be aware that day-to- day operations of agricultural-producing neighbors may be disruptive to notions of idealized rural living. You may encounter the following in rural areas: •Forested land next to yours may be logged. •Farmers may burn fields or ditches to keep them clean of debris, weeds and other obstructions. •Logging operations may burn slash piles. •Farmers often work around the clock and may run machinery at night to avoid daytime winds or heat. •Landowners are responsible for controlling noxious weeds on their property. •Farmers may spray sulfur, oil, pesticides, manure, and herbicides throughout the year to protect crops. •Frost control fans or bird control devices (cannons or distress calls) make loud noises and may run at night. •Farmers can shoot dogs found harassing livestock. Right to Farm Washington State protects farmers and ranchers from nuisance and liability lawsuits. Klickitat and Skama- nia Counties have enacted "Right to Farm" ordi- nances which enable the farms and ranches to con- tinue producing food and fiber. Farmland Preservation People come to this area to live and play partly be- cause of the rural character and agricultural productiv- ity of the land. Many in the area want to maintain those values for future generations. Find out more about Farmland Preservation at farmland.org What You Can Do While there are many benefits to rural lifestyles, you may not enjoy every aspect. Contact UCD for information on planting windbreaks or hedgerows to create a living screen. Native plants can create privacy, reduce dust and pesticide drift, and provide habitat for pollinators and wildlife. As always, be considerate of what agriculturalists need in order to make a living and maintain open, working lands. Before You Buy Consider these issues: Water - Learn how water is supplied to the prop- erty. Irrigation and water rights are complex and you may not have per- mission to use water that runs across your own land. Rivers, streams and wetlands may also require special management. Winter Weather can be severe. Be prepared for power outages. Be prepared to shovel or plow snow out of your driveway or stay put for several days. Meet your neighbors, and work to develop good re- lationships. You may need their help sooner than you think. Land Maintenance - Maintaining your property can be hard work. Are you prepared to learn about irri- gation pumps or spend countless hours maintaining fences, thinning brush or mowing? Septic Maintenance Households that are not served by public sewer systems usually depend on septic tank systems to treat and dispose of wastewater. A well designed, installed and maintained septic sys- tem can provide years of reliable low-cost service. When these systems fail, property damage, ground and surface water pollution, and disease outbreaks can occur. Learn about your septic system. How is your system designed? Where are pipes routed from? Where is the outflow area? When was the system last pumped? Your County Health Depart- ment can help you inspect your septic system and give you information on maintenance. ---PAGE BREAK--- 6 Living Near Lakes and Streams What Is a Riparian Zone? A riparian zone is the vegetated transitional area be- tween a waterway and the surrounding lands. It in- cludes the stream banks, side channels, floodplains, and lake edges - anywhere vegetation grows along wa- terways . Why Do We Need Them? Riparian zones are important natural bio-filters that protect and stabilize streambanks, reduce erosion, re- duce polluted surface runoff, and flooding. Research shows riparian zones play a major role in maintaining clean water. Riparian areas provide shelter and food for many animals. Streamside trees, especially coni- fers, provide shade to keep stream temperatures cool. Riparian zones play an important role in supporting a wide variety of living organisms, including fish, am- phibians, birds, mammals, and plants. Trees along streams reduce flooding and provide hiding places, pools and nutrients essential for aquatic habitats and fish. Riparian areas mimicking natural processes can be engineered using large wood and rootwads for habi- tat restoration and bank stabilization objectives. Waterways are often protected from certain clearing or development activities. Contact your County Plan- ning Department for specific information. Healthy Riparian Zones Can Help: • Reduce flooding by ab- sorbing excess moisture • Reduce streambank ero- sion. • Filter stormwater to pre- vent it from running directly into streams. • Improve water quality by keeping streams shaded and cool in the summer. • Provide habitat for fish and wildlife. Diagram of a Healthy Riparian Zone Bank stabilization rootwads and new plantings have been in- stalled to improve riparian area and reduce erosion. See before picture on next page. ---PAGE BREAK--- Living Near Lakes and Streams, cont’d 7 What is a Watershed? A watershed is the land area that drains to a river or lake. Defined by ridge tops and high points, all the water that falls within our area will eventually drain to the Columbia River. The Columbia River Water- shed begins in British Columbia and encompasses 258,000 square miles. You may also be living in an- other sub-watershed, such as the Wind River or White Salmon River watersheds. Protect Riparian Areas: •Plant native trees and shrubs to trap pollutants, runoff and to shade streams. •Control livestock/animal access to streams, ponds and wet- lands from overgrazing and trampling. Fence pastures ap- propriately. •Avoid construction in Riparian areas. This may cause chemicals or waste to flush into the stream. •Keep all trash, and debris, including lawn wastes, away from surface waters. •Don’t pour soapy water, oil, paint, household chemicals or pesticides down storm drains. Drains often feed directly into streams. •Keep pet waste away from streams, riparian areas and paved areas. •Use less or non-toxic household cleaners, try baking soda, lemon juice and vinegar •Don’t divert water to build a pond or irrigate without proper permits. Use Plants to Stabilize Banks Healthy riparian zones contain a variety of plants in- cluding trees, shrubs, grasses and other ground covers. Native plants are adapted to local rainfall, climate, insects and soil types, and tend to be easier to care for because they need less water and other inputs, such as pesticides. This is an eroding streambank and an unhealthy riparian zone, see end result of bank stabilization project on the previous page. Western Red Cedar Black Cottonwood Willows Red Osier Dogwood Bigleaf Maple Red Alder Douglas Spirea Vine Maple Blue Elderberry Pacific Ninebark Oceanspray Rosa Rugosa Beaked Hazelnut Quaking Aspen Common Riparian Plants of the Pacific Northwest Columbia River Watershed Wind River Watershed ---PAGE BREAK--- 8 Water Conservation Tips for Water Conservation Anyone who lives in the area and who uses water has a role to play in conserving water. Water is the gold of our future, and the next ten years will require crea- tive, proactive water conservation measures by all residents. How will you do things differently? Resi- dents can conserve water to keep our water tables up and wells recharging. We can conserve water to maintain water levels in the streams for fish, wildlife and recreation. If everyone makes small changes, they will compound to make great differences in our com- munities’ total water use. Indoor Water Conservation Tips Find dripping faucets and running toilets and fix the leaks. According to EPA, 10% of the water a typical homeowner pays for is never used because it leaks down the drain. A leaky faucet that drips at a rate of 1 drop per second can waste up to 2700 gallons of water a year. A leaky toilet can waste as much as 200 gallons per day. To check for leaks in the toilet, add food col- oring to the tank; if the toilet is leaking, color will ap- pear in the bowl within 15 minutes. Replacing worn out parts in the leaky toilet is easy and inexpensive (flush as soon as the test is done, since food coloring may stain the tank). Fill part of the toilet’s tank with a filled 2-liter jug. This will reduce the amount of water that is used for each flush. Low flow toilets (1.6 gpf or less) are avail- able at most home improvement stores. Turn the water off while you brush your teeth. This can save up to 4 gallons per minute. Take a quick shower (under 5 minutes) and save up to 1,000 gallons of water each month. In the hot months especially, turn the shower off until you’re ready to rinse. Designate a drinking glass for an entire day to cut down on dish loads. Install low-flow aerators on your faucets and show- erheads (available at local hardware stores). In the kitchen, scrape dirty dishes rather than rinsing them before placing them in the dishwasher. Instead of using a garbage disposal, start a compost pile with food scraps and help reduce water use as well as solid waste. Garbage disposals require a lot of water to operate, and can add up to 50% of the solid waste in our sewer lines. See the Composting page in this booklet. Klickitat County also has some excellent information about composting on their website (www.klickitatcounty.org/SolidWaste). Only run full dishwasher loads. Keep drinking water in the refrigerator instead of letting the water run until it’s cool. The graph below shows typical household water use. Think how much you could save just by fixing leaks! ---PAGE BREAK--- Water Conservation, cont’d 9 Outdoor Water Conservation Tips Make sure your plants or lawn really need the water you apply. On a rainy day, turn your watering system off. Avoid watering at windy times when the water is more likely to drift away from your target plants or evapo- rate faster. Don’t water plants from overhead. Water on leaves can burn them in the sun, and water is wasted due to drift and evaporation. Drip irrigation is a great option for the average vegetable garden or flower bed. Water grass and garden beds in the morning or evening to reduce loss of water due to evaporation. This may help reduce the occurrence of slugs and other critters that like moisture. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deeper root growth. Slow irrigation allows for better absorption into the soil and less water runoff. If your plants de- velop deeper roots they will be more capable of find- ing the water they need on their own. Use a hose with a shut off nozzle. This can save as much as 150 gallons per car wash. Minimize bare ground. Planting plants closer together so the leaves will cover and shade the ground con- serves water. Leaving less bare ground exposed will allow water to soak into the ground rather than evapo- rate or runoff. If your plants don’t cover every inch of space, use mulch. Mulch keeps water in the ground and prevents weeds from germinating. A layer of cardboard or paper, leaves, grass clippings, wood chips, nut hulls, and many other various materials can be used as mulch. Mulching also adds nutrients to the soil and reduces the need for fertilizer. Plant drought tolerant or native plants that require less water (and maintenance). Many of these plants are great for landscaping, with showy flowers and edible fruits. Because the native plants are adapted to local rainfall, extra water is only necessary when the plants are first getting established. Reduce the amount of turf grass you have in your yard, or allow your lawn to go dormant this summer by watering it only once every three weeks. If you love having a green lawn, there are turf grass varie- ties that require minimal watering. Call Under- wood Conservation District for information on these varieties. When mowing your lawn, set the blade at 2-3 inches. Longer grass will shade the soil and allow for better water absorption and stronger root growth Either leave the grass clippings on the lawn to add nutri- ents to soil, or use them as mulch elsewhere. Turn gutters and downspouts towards trees and shrubs so that rainwater can help do your watering for you. Use a broom to sweep sidewalks and driveways in- stead of using a hose. A hose uses approximately 50 gallons of water every 5 minutes! Wash your car on the lawn to prevent soapy water from running into storm drains and streams. The lawn can filter and use the water. Using a commer- cial carwash will ensure proper treatment of waste- water. Remember our stormwater flows into streams and rivers where we fish and recreate and where our children play ---PAGE BREAK--- 10 Native Plants Bitter Cherry is a native tree valued by wildlife Willows Blue Elderberry Black Hawthorn Snow Berry Serviceberry Mock Orange Wild Rose Ocean Spray Golden Currant Thimbleberry Oregon Grape Beaked Hazelnut Red Alder Salmon Berry Salal Ninebark Vine Maple Red Osier Dogwood Red Currant Douglas Spirea Columbine Black Cottonwood Western Red Cedar Some Native Plants for Hedgerows or What is a Native Plant? Native plants are plants that occur naturally in the local area and are adapted to the seasons and growing conditions here. There are many benefits to using na- tive plants in your landscaping. See below for ideas. Why Landscape with Native Plants? REDUCE INVASIVE WEEDS •Invasive weeds are a big problem across much of the coun- try. Many of these invasives were first planted as garden ornamentals, which then escaped into the natural landscape, wreaking havoc on native plant populations. SAVE MONEY AND RESOURCES •In the west, 60% of water used outdoors is consumed by lawns. Consider digging up portions of your lawn that you tend to have the most trouble with, and plant with drought- tolerant native plants. •Because native plants are already adapted to the pests and soils of the area, they require little, if any, pesticides or fer- tilizers. •Underwood Conservation District or your local native plant nursery can help you choose the right plants for your landscaping needs. SAVE TIME •Native plant landscapes tend to take care of themselves. Replanting a lawn with native plants reduces time spent mowing, raking, and watering. ATTRACT WILDLIFE •Use native plants to attract native wildlife like birds and butterflies into your yard. NATIVE PLANTS ARE BEAUTIFUL! •There are lots of beautiful and unique native flowers, trees, and shrubs to choose from. GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT Native plants help control erosion and reduce run-off, keeping sediments and pollutants out of waterways. Getting Started Observe what kinds of growing conditions exist on your site. Note the soil type, amount of sunlight through the days and seasons, drainage and moisture. Also consider visiting a nearby natural area and ob- serve what plants are growing there, what kinds of conditions they’re growing in, as well as how the plants arrange themselves with other plant species. Mamie and Francis Gaddis Park off Spring Street in White Salmon has native plants identified along the trails. Select Plants for Your Site Decide what plants will work for your site based on soil, moisture, and light conditions. Visit your local plant nursery for more information about what plants would work well at your site. Planting and Maintenance Tips Make sure you dig a big enough hole so roots are not bent upwards and are well-spaced. Plant in the fall or in early spring so plants get enough moisture to estab- lish healthy root growth, and water your trees and shrubs for 1-2 summers after planting to ensure they are established enough to grow on their own. Local Sources of Native Plants: Milestone Nursery, Lyle, WA [PHONE REDACTED] Gator Creek Gardens, Carson, WA [PHONE REDACTED] Humble Roots, Mosier, OR [EMAIL REDACTED] Also try www.plantnative.org ---PAGE BREAK--- Native Plants, cont’d 11 Hedgerows Plant native plants along ditches or streams to create hedgerows. Hedgerows can filter runoff, decrease flood- ing, protect streams, provide shelter and food for wildlife and attract pollinators to a garden or orchard. Hedgerows can act as wind barriers and provide attractive visual and physical boundaries. When installing a new hedgerow: keep existing native plants; plant more of the plants you find growing already, as these plants are likely adapted to conditions in your area; add different native plants that are adapted to your conditions to increase structure, di- versity and shape. Call UCD for ideas on native hedge- row plants adapted to your location. Stream Buffers or Buffer Strips Plant strips of grass or other vegetation down slope of animal paddocks or confinement areas or workshops where small spills may occur to prevent runoff from en- tering streams or groundwater. For advice on buffer size and species suitable for planting, call UCD. Garden Wise The invasive species listed on the left below are com- monly planted as ornamentals but they reduce food and habitat that wildlife depend on and may spread aggressively. The plants on the right are beautiful, provide habitat for wildlife, and attract pollinators. Adapted from Washington County SWCD Stream Buffers Fact Sheet Avoid these Invasive Ornamentals Opt for these Non- Invasive Alternatives Butterfly Bush Pacific Ninebark, Chaste Tree, California Lilac English Holly Tall Oregon Grape, Os- manthus or False Holly Knotweeds Goats Beard, Robusta Clumping Bamboo, Fothergilla Tall or Purple Verbena Russian Sage, Larkspur Delphinium, Pincushion Flower, Homestead Pur- ple Verbena From “Garden Wise” Non-Invasive Plants for Your Garden from the Invasive Species Coalition, www.invasivespeciescoalition.org Resources •Plant Native www.plantnative.org Contact your local Master Gardener •WSU Master Gardener Native Plant Guide: gardening.wsu.edu/nwnative •WSU Klickitat County Extension •www.klickitat.wsu.edu/masterg.html •WSU Skamania County Extension •skamania.wsu.edu/Hort.htm •Washington Native Plant Society: www.wnps.org •Native Plant Database: www.wildflower.org/plants Western Columbine Aquilegia formosa Douglas Spirea Spirea douglasii Sword Fern Polystichum munitum Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium Goldenrod Solidago canadensis Douglas Spirea Spirea douglasii Goldenrod Solidago canadensis Western Columbine Aquilegia formosa Sword Fern Polystichum munitum Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium ---PAGE BREAK--- Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) Douglas Fir is one of the most important and prolific tree in the Pacific Northwest. It is also the most used lumber species in the US and is commonly used as plywood, fuel and Christmas trees. Leaves: Needles are positioned singly on the branch often covering it all the way around. They are ¾ to 1¼ in long, dark yellow-green to blue green and highly variable. Bark: Smooth and dark gray-brown when young, corky and deeply furrowed as it ages. All but the outer layer has wavy light and dark bands on it. Cone: 3 to 4 in long egg shaped cones, bracts with three points poking out of each scale. Size: Truly a giant in the forest, the Douglas Fir can attain heights of over 225 ft. and sometimes is found more than 8 ft. across Bigleaf Maple (Acer A common large leaved tree used for furniture and wood fuel. It grows rapidly in mixed stands on rich bottomland soils. It is shade tolerant. Leaves: Opposite, five lobed, long stem 8-12 inches Bark:Brown to gray, dark and furrowed on older trees Fruit: Double samara, two ‘wings’ 1-2 inches, hairy Size: Medium, 60-80 feet max. A narrow crown is nor- mal, and open crown becomes a much broader tree Black Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa) This is the largest native hardwood in the state of Washington and is used as paper, fuel and plywood. Common in area with increased moisture such as wetland, ponds and stream banks Leaves: Alternate, oval, serrated, 3-4 in. Bark: grayish brown and furrowed on lower trunk Fruit: three-valved hairy capsule Size: Very large in the west over 120 feet with a narrow round topped crown. Oregon White Oak (Quercus garryana) This is the only oak in the state. This is a slow grow- ing species that is commonly found in stands on dry rocky sites. It is cut locally for fuel and furni- ture. Leaves: Alternate, simple with five to seven rounded lobes. 4 to 6 in long with hairy stems. Bark: Grayish brown, scaly. Smooth on younger stems broken up into narrow fis- sures. Fruit: Acorn, 1 to 1 1/4 in enclosed at base by a cup. Size: A medium sized tree, 60-70 feet tall with a broad round Crown. Small trees are know as Scrub Oak. Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa) This long needled pine is know by a variety of com- mon names; Yellow, Bull and Blackjack Pine. Leaves: Needles occur in clus- ters of 2 or 3 that are 5 to 11 in. long and green in color. Bark: Brown to reddish brown with a flaky texture. Cone: 3 to 6 in. long, egg shaped with prickly scales. Size: The ponderosa Pine can easily reach 100 180 feet with up to a 4 foot diameter. This is a drought resistant tree that needs sunlight and space to grow. Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata) Leaves: Flattened, scale like, and closely pressed at right angles in alternate pairs, these yellow green leaves are easy to identify. Bark: Bright reddish brown thin fibers that peel off. Cones: These very small (1/2 in) cones cluster in groups upright on the branch. Size: The western Red Cedar can reach 200+ ft. tall and 6 ft. in diameter. This shade loving cypress enjoys damp soil and doesn’t do well in exposed, dry places. Great for the wetland or riparian areas, it has rot resis- tant wood. Continued on the next page. 12 Common Tree Species 2002 Steve Baskauf bioimages.vanderbilt.edu ---PAGE BREAK--- Soils and Common Tree Species, cont’d 13 “Essentially, all life depends upon the soil There can be no life without soil and no soil without life; they have evolved together.” - Charles E. Kellogg, USDA Yearbook of Agriculture, 1938 Simple Physical Soil Tests: A simple test in the field will help you determine the relative proportions of physical materials in your soil. This basic test in- volves scooping up a small, handful size portion of damp soil at various depths, and performing basic tasks like squeezing, smelling and identifying the color of your soil. Squeezing the soil will tell you the relative proportion of clay in your soil. If the soil remains compacted in the shape of your clenched hand, the soil has a high proportion of clay. If it feels gritty and falls apart easily, it contains a high proportion of sand. If it feels kind of spongy and is dark brown or black in color, it contains a high proportion of loam. Soil Drainage: The ability of a soil to drain water is an important feature to many landowners. To test your soils drainage capacity you can perform a sim- ple test. Dig a hole in your soil 24 to 36 inches deep (width is not important). Fill the hole with water and let drain for several hours or over night. Refill the hole with water (avoid doing this on a sunny/ hot day to minimize loss to evaporation) and moni- tor the depth of the water over time. A poorly drained soil will drain less than a half inch per hour. A moderately drained soil will drain between a half inch and one inch per hour. A well drained soil will drain more than one inch per hour. Analytical Laboratory Soil Tests: To gain more in- sight into the properties of your soil that have a di- rect impact on plant life and crop production, a labo- ratory soil test may be advisable. There are numer- ous soil test laboratories across the country offering a wide array of services (see Soil Resources below) ranging from standard tests that might estimate pH, extractable nutrients, cation exchange capacity, or- ganic matter and soluble salts to numerous other tests. Many soil testing laboratories will have spe- cific procedures regarding correct field sampling techniques, sample labeling procedures, storage and shipping methods. Some laboratories will provide recommendations for nutrient and pH adjustment in addition to the analysis report. Grand Fir (Abies grandis) Grand fir is widely distributed throughout the Northwest. It toler- ates shade is common in the under story and forest edges in this area. Leaves: Flattened needles 3/4 - 2 inches long, yellow green in color with two white bands on underside. Bark: Gray-green and covered with resin blisters when young, Gray-brown with flattened ridges when mature. Cone: 2-4 inches, greenish when mature, cylindrical, upright on branches, cones dry and fall apart when seed matures in fall. Size: Can attain heights over 200’ on good growing sites, but generally isn’t as large as Douglas-fir and Pon- derosa pine. Soils Many farmers and ranchers will tell you that their number one priority crop, year in and year out, is their soil. Soils are complex arrangements of inorganic (minerals), organic (dead plant, fungi, insect etc) and living materials (bacteria, fungi, insect, plant etc). The majority of soils are composed of some combination of the following physical properties: sand/silt clay loam and living and organic materials. Soils provide both physical structure as well as the chemical nutrition critical to plant life. The specific combination of materials as well as their specific arrangement all contributes to the unique soils of your property. There are numerous resources available to learn more about your soils. This includes, but is not limited to, research on existing soil classification data, simple field physical testing, soil drainage testing, as well as laboratory aided soil testing. Soil Classification Data: A large percentage of soils across the United States have been sampled, mapped and classified. This extraordinary wealth of informa- tion is made available by the Natural Resource Conser- vation Service (formerly the Soil Conservation Service) in both printed books and online through the Web Soil Survey (see Soil Resources, right). Underwood Conser- vation District staff are available to help you access this data. Soil Resources USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service Web Soil Survey: websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/HomePage.htm Soil Testing Laboratories: University of Massachusetts www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest Washington State University: www.puyallup.wsu.edu/ ---PAGE BREAK--- What is an Invasive Species? Invasive species can be plants, animals, or fungi that are not native to an ecosystem and were introduced by humans. Invasive species are a problem because they have no natural predators or parasites that control their numbers. As a result, invasive species can spread ag- gressively and crowd out desirable plants that provide food and habitat for wildlife. These species are expen- sive to control and can forever degrade our natural en- vironment by reducing crop yields, damaging recrea- tional opportunities, clogging waterways, lowering land values, creating erosion problems and fire hazards. Some are poisonous to humans and livestock. Do your best not to transport invasive species or seeds. Report new sightings with your county’s Weed Control De- partment. What If Invasives Are On My Land? Remember, once invasive weeds are present they are virtually impossible to eradicate! You may be held re- sponsible for the cost of invasive species removal on your land, so act early and often. Prevention– Prevention is the first step and should be used in conjunction with other methods. Do not let dis- turbed soil stay bare for any length of time; invasive species thrive on disturbed soils. If you have bare soil, broadcast a native grass seed mix to establish some vegetation while you finish your project. Mechanical Control– Options include pulling, lopping, clipping and cutting weeds on your land. This method requires hard work. Try to remove invasive weeds when they are young and before they go to seed. Biological Control- This control relies on natural predators of the weed species including fungi and in- sects. Bio controls help to reduce, but not eradicate, weeds. Use them in conjunction with other methods. Contact your county weed board for information on specific biological controls. Chemical Control– Chemical herbicides are an efficient way to control some invasive weeds. Be careful not to damage native plants or pollute waterways. Always follow manufacturer instructions as well as State and county regulations. Himalayan Blackberry (Rubus armeniacus) Blackberry is a common sight along roads, near streams, in fields and yards thought the state. Although delicious, this blackberry tends to spread into large thickets and can choke out native plants, shrubs and even trees. Blackberry has spiny canes that may per- sist through the winter. We also have a native Trail- ing Blackberry in the area, but it stays low to the ground. Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) This flowering mustard plant, na- tive to Europe and Asia, was in- troduced as a culinary herb in the 1860s. The insects and fungi that feed on it in its native habitat are not pre- sent in North America, increasing its seed productivity and allowing it to out-compete native plants. Garlic Mustard blankets for- ests and displaces native plants and reduces forage for deer, who prefer the now rarer, native species. Browsing deer trample the soil and encourage seeds to spread and grow. • Seeds stored in the soil can germinate up to five years after being produced. • Small patches can be manually removed by hand pulling or spraying • Plants that have been uprooted can still produce seed. Be sure to bag everything. • Document the site and report any Garlic Mustard to your county’s Weed Department. 14 Invasive Species Japanese Knotweed Yellow Star Thistle English Ivy Canada Thistle Herb Robert Houndstounge Rush Skeleton Weed False Brome Yellow Flag Iris Shiny Geranium False Brome St. Johnswort Tansy Ragwort Poison Hemlock Other Noxious Weeds Skamania County Noxious Weed Department (509) 427-3941 or www.skamaniacounty.org/weeds/ noxious_weed_board.htm Klickitat County Noxious Weed Control (509) 773-5810 or [EMAIL REDACTED] Chris Evans, River to River CWMA, bugwood.org ---PAGE BREAK--- Scotch Broom (Cytisus scoparius) Scotch Broom is an aggressive weed that invades dis- turbed sites, roadsides, fields and construction or log- ging sites. It’s found throughout the state and was introduced for erosion control along state high- ways. Some people are highly allergic to the pollen it produces. Scotch broom is a hardy evergreen and a member of the pea family. It produces bright yellow flowers followed by green pods that turn brown in late summer. Ripe pods burst open with a ‘pop’ and spread seed in all directions. Seed can stay viable for 30 years! Do not pull Scotch Broom be- cause you will disturb the soil and encourage seeds in soil to germinate. Instead, cut stalks below the soil sur- face with loppers. Remove plants of seeding age first. Maintain a watchful eye in the spring for green shoots. After removing bigger plants, small plants can be maintained by mowing. Knapweeds (Centaurea) Knapweeds are aggressive, invasive weeds that inhabit pastures, fields road sides and other bare ground sites. There are many varieties in Washington state and flow- ers can be yellow, pink or white. Most varieties have spiny stalks. Knapweeds increase soil erosion, con- sume nutrients and crowd out native vegetation. They are also allopathic, meaning they produce a natural her- bicide that eliminates neighboring plants. This chemi- cal toxin enables Knapweeds to ef- fectively take over and area once they are introduced. Knapweed re- moval is a challenge. Early detection and fast action can stop the weeds from becoming established. Pulling Knapweed before it goes to seed can be an effective control method. Weeds pulled at the wrong time may drop seed and produce a huge crop the next season! Learn more at: www.invasive.org Aquatic Nuisance Species (ANS) ANS are water-based invasive species that can take over lakes, streams and rivers. ANS can overwhelm native fish species, prevent recreation and pose health hazards. Keep a diligent watch for these invaders and clean your gear so you don’t spread them! Report Sightings to: 1800-Stop-ANS New Zealand Mudsnails This tiny aquatic snail is in the Deschutes River! These snails can completely cover a streambed and wreak havoc on local ecosys- tems by eating the organisms that fish eat. These Mudsnails reproduce by cloning, so a single snail can start a new population. These snails can survive out of water for 72 hours and can pass through fish undigested. Zebra and Quagga Mussels These mussels can cause major problems. They can shut down public wa- ter supply pipes, in- dustrial facilities, hy- droelectric dams, boat docks and make sandy beaches as sharp as glass. By removing most of the food avail- able to other organisms, Zebra and Quagga mussels can effectively starve the native populations of fish and shellfish. The estimated annual cost of controlling Zebra mussels in the Great Lakes area now ranges from $100 to $400 million annually! Eurasian Milfoil Milfoil forms very dense mats of vegetation that can interfere with recreational activities such as swimming, fishing, water skiing, and boating. Milfoil can quickly cover a lake & mos- quitoes like to hide and breed in dense mats of Milfoil. Invasive Species, cont’d 15 John Cardina, Ohio State University, bugwood.org Never Leave Disturbed Ground Bare! Invasive species thrive in disturbed areas. Broadcast non-invasive grass seed while you finish your project. Fisherman, Boaters, Science Crews & Kayakers: Don’t Spread Mud, Sand or Plant Materials to New Waters! You could spread invasive species that threaten recreation! 1. When moving between water bodies, rinse & inspect gear to ensure you aren’t transporting any materials. 2. Dry waders completely, rinse in hot water or freeze before moving to a new water body. Learn more at: www.clr.pdx.edu/projects/ans ---PAGE BREAK--- 16 Wildlife and Habitat What Are the Benefits of Wildlife? •Bats and birds are natural pest control! Birds devour mosquitoes, caterpillars, gnats, flies and other insects. •Bats can eat up to 500 insects per hour and are impor- tant pollinators. •Hawks and owls eat rodents and prevent rodent populations from getting out of control. •Recreational Opportunities: A thriving wildlife population provides ample opportunities for activi- ties including bird watching, photography, hunting& fishing. •Wildlife is Free. Wild animals do not need to be walked, fed or cleaned up after. Few house pets are as low-maintenance. A Wildlife Mindset To attract wildlife to your land, think abut how your land will provide for needs of all wildlife: Food - Seeds, berries, nuts, nectar, insects, arthropods Water - Streams, wetlands or marsh areas, birdbaths, dripping faucets, ponds, or water features Shelter - Trees, shrubs, brush piles, rock walls, rock piles, hollow logs, snags, perches, tree cavities, shade Space - Migration or passage corridors, edge areas, open space, nesting, resting, and rearing young Inviting Wildlife To Your Property: Getting Started! •Draw a map of your property •Take an inventory of places that provide shelter on your property; include stumps, snags, & rocky areas. •Integrate native plants in your landscaping. Wildlife are adapted to and depend on native shrubs, trees and groundcovers for food, shelter and nest material. •Protect buffer areas along streams, rivers, wetlands and ponds. These areas are great habitat for amphibi- ans, numerous species of waterfowl and bugs that fish feed on. Riparian areas provide food and shelter for larger mammals as well. •Leave habitat connections between your land and the next natural area, wildlife or fish easement. These connections help maintain passage corridors for moving or migrating wildlife. Western Gray Squirrels are year- round inhabitants of the Columbia River Gorge and spend their lives in oak or mixed Ponderosa Pine , Douglas Fir woodlands. Resources: •Borrow these books through the White Salmon Li- brary: Living with Wildlife by Russell Link and Don’t Run From Bears and Other Advice on Living with Wildlife in the Columbia River Gorge, by Bill Weiler •Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife Back- yard Sanctuary Program wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/backyard •National Wildlife Federation Garden for Wildlife Program: www.nwf.org/outside •Cornell’s All About Birds Site: www.birds.cornell.edu •The Wildlife Habitat Incentive Program (WHIP) is a voluntary program for conservation-minded landown- ers who want to develop and improve wildlife habitat on private land. See: www.nrcs.usda.gov/programs/whip Weekend Projects •Eliminate Invasive Species from you landscape. They can grow aggressively and exclude the native plants that wildlife depend on. Japanese Knotweed in ripar- ian areas is deadly to habitat diversity and requires early intervention. Blackberry requires a long-term management strategy (mowing annually). •Feeder, roost and nest boxes can be added to your property to increase the population of certain species. Be sure the boxes you buy are designed for the bird you wish to attract. Call UCD or search online for bird & bat box plans. Get Outside Visit public lands with habitats similar to your own. Include visits to restored areas and active restoration projects. Identify similarities between natural areas and your own property and species that may visit. Conboy Lake Wildlife Refuge, Glenwood Balfour-Klickitat Park, Lyle Catherine Creek, near Lyle Columbia Hills State Park, Dallesport Mamie & Francis Gaddis Park, White Salmon Trapper Creek Wilderness Area, Stabler Trout Lake NAP Get involved in Annual & Christmas Day Bird Counts 2008 Cold Springs Fire ---PAGE BREAK--- Tips for Land Managers Have you identified goals for your property or agricul- tural operation? Do your goals include promoting wildlife habitat? If you want to reduce costs and real- ize benefits of natural pest control, consider these tips: •Time maintenance activities to minimize potential impacts on wildlife and their life functions: breeding, caring for young, and migration. Time haying activi- ties to have minimal impact on ground nesting birds (most are done by mid-July, some are much earlier like Western Meadowlark and Long-billed Curlew). Time your tree thinning activities to be aware of can- opy and cavity nesters (most are done nesting by mid -July). •Promote water sources on your property like vernal pools (seasonal swales that hold snow on water & dry out by spring or summer). Plant pond edges with na- tive plants (vs. lawn grass) to increase wildlife diver- sity. Promote vegetation near water for shade and habitat and plant diversity. •Birds feed on bug pests! Resident and migratory bird species eat destructive forest defoliating insects that threaten forests and increase wildfire risk. Birds need habitat, so plan your thinning or harvesting activities with birds in mind by keeping some nesting and for- age areas. Manage your land for diversity by keeping a variety of tree species of different ages, including shrubs, standing snags and downed logs. •Many wildlife species serve as good indicators of habitat diversity and quality (examples: White- breasted Nuthatch breeding = healthy presence of older Oregon White Oaks; Tailed frogs = need cold water temps; Sage Sparrow breeding = healthy com- munity of Big Sagebrush in large enough area). Wildlife and Habitat, cont’d 17 Two Osprey nest in an old piece of dock equipment near Stevenson, WA. Mated pair such as these are becoming a more frequent sight along the Columbia River. Coho salmon White-breasted Nuthatch The Deer are Invading! Managing for Wildlife Pests Many people have problems protecting tree and shrub seedlings from deer or elk browse. Deer and elk like to rub their antler velvet on Ponderosa Pine and snack on Western Red Cedar. Deer may browse any young seedling depending on forage availability. While there are no perfect solutions, UCD does have 2 types of mesh tree protectors for sale. A more experimental method we have used with some suc- cess is to tie half of a dryer sheet to an upper branch of each seedling. We believe the strong odor deters browse for a limited time. See Russell Link’s book for managing wildlife pests. Integrated Pest Management Integrated Pest Management (IPM) enables manag- ers to limit the use of pesticides, herbicides and fer- tilizers while controlling pest populations. IPM meets pest management objectives and uses eco- nomically & environmentally sound pest control methods. IPM often includes the use of natural predators such as birds and bats. IPM helps manag- ers learn when to time activities so they have fewest negative impacts on wildlife. Forest managers, or- chardists, viticulturists and gardeners can implement IPM on a small or large scale to limit damaging pests and attract beneficial insects. Be aware of the species you may impact by spraying or applying chemicals. You may be working against your own goals. Retain Native Hardwoods such as Oregon White Oak Did you know spring bird migrations are timed with caterpillar emergence? Birds eat Bugs! Wildlife Love Tree Defects Consider leaving the following defects for wildlife: cavities, loose bark, split or broken leaders, & dead tops on live trees. Resources •OSU Integrated Plant Protection Center: ippcweb.science.oregonstate.edu •WSU Extension IPM research: ipm.wsu.edu •Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation www.xerces.org Find bat and bird box plans here. •Northwest IPM: www.nwipm.info/industlinks.asp ---PAGE BREAK--- 18 Living With Fire Fire: Part of the Landscape Fire is a natural part our environment. Long before human occupation, frequent fires ensured only the strongest, healthiest trees survived on the east side of the Cascades. On the west side, and in heavily for- ested areas, infrequent but catastrophic fires burned forests completely and forest succession restarted with seedlings. Fire suppression over the recent past has allowed a build-up of potential fuel sources and an in- creased likelihood of intense fires throughout the re- gion. Fires are likely to have major impacts on private and public lands. Steep terrain combined with dry, hot, windy summers create the perfect storm for fires in our area. Fire Awareness •Defensible Space is the single most important step you can take to increase the likelihood of your home surviving a fire. Defensible Space also provides a safe area for fire fighters to work in. •Living in rural areas means that fire departments may have longer re- sponse times, may have to carry their own water, and may have to traverse difficult terrain to reach your property. •If your property is hard to access, doesn’t have adequate turn-around space or could trap fire fighters, they are unlikely to enter or protect your property. •Be Fire Safe! Be aware of weather and wind! Encourage fire awareness among friends and relatives. FireWise Construction Materials Your house could be vulnerable to a fire because of its design, construction, and/or its location. Roof. Your roof is the most vulnerable part of your house because it can easily catch fire from wind- blown sparks. After creating Defensible Space, the single most important step you can take to reduce your fire risk is to build or re-roof with fire-resistant or noncombustible materials when it is time to re- place your roof. Cedar shake is highly flammable, choose metal or Class C asphalt shingles. Siding. Choose fire resistant siding if building new and keep vegetation next to siding to a minimum if your siding is wood. Decks. Keep vegetation to a minimum under decks, and use gravel footing. Do not store firewood under decks and consider enclosing areas under the deck with 1/2” wire mesh or non-wood lattice. If build- ing new, consider a non-wood decking material. SAVE YOUR HOME! CREATE Defensible Space Additional Resources Defensible Space Step by Step: pnwfireprevention.com FirewiseUSA: www.firewise.org US FEMA Fire: www.usfa.dhs.gov See WA DNR Fire Prevention web page ---PAGE BREAK--- Living with Fire, cont’d What is Defensible Space? Defensible space is an area you create around your home to reduce chances your home will be ignited by a wildfire. Fire can ignite homes in three ways: direct flames, indirect heat and if flying embers land on your roof, on a deck or near wood siding. Be creating Defen- sible Space and reducing the vegetation around your home, you can reduce the chances of your home burn- ing in a wildfire even if you are away. Create Defensible Space The area immediately adjacent to your house is par- ticularly important for an effective Defensible Space. This area is called the Home Ignition Zone. Focus your efforts in this area. •Within 30’ of your home keep vegetation to a mini- mum and keep it well spaced from other vegetation. Think of vegetation as fuel and keep your landscaping lean, clean and green. •Remove branches that overhang roofs, garages or decks. Limb up and remove tree branches that hang low, near vegetation or structures. UCD has a pole saw for rent. •Choose drought resistant, native plants for landscap- ing and select plants (see right) with fire resistant characteristics. •Remove any dead vegetation within the defensible space area. Remove dead branches lying on the ground or still attached to a tree, dried grass or shrubs, dropped leaves, needles, and firewood debris in- cluding bark. Fire Behavior Fire behavior depends on Topography, Weather and Fuel. Fire moves uphill. The steeper the slope, the faster it can move. Think about prevailing winds around your property. Which direction is wind likely to be blowing in summer and early fall? Mod- ify vegetation based on your conclusions. Defensible Space and Slope How big is a defensible space? It depends on the slope of you property. You need 70-200 feet of De- fensible Space if your home is on a slope, or 30’ if the topography is flat. Break up continuous, dense stands of trees or shrubs. More widely spaced plants are less susceptible to wildfire threat. Ladder Fuels Vegetation grows at different heights and fire can quickly move from a grass fire up to igniting shrubs, and finally into tree crowns. Within the defensible space area, create a separation between low growing vegetation and tree branches. Space shrubs. Fire Resistance: Any Plant will Burn Using fire resistant native plants in your landscape rather than highly flammable vegetation can help protect your home from flames and heat. Characteristics of fire resistant plants: •Don’t have aromatic sap (juniper, arborvitae, cedar, pine) or strong odors when leaves are crushed. •Don’t accumulate dry, dead material through the year (lilacs, blackberries, junipers) or have papery bark. Some fire resistant plant suggestions: Shrubs: Rhododendron, Azalea, Flowering Currant, Mock Orange, Serviceberry, Ore. Grape, Salal Groundcovers: Kinnikinnick, Pinks, Ice plant, se- dum Perennials: Yarrow, Coreopsis, Penstemon, Echina- cea, Flax, Lupine, Blanket Flower, Daylily, Iris, Poppy Trees: Ponderosa Pine, Western Larch and Ore White Oak are adapted to survive fire. In your Defensible space, opt for limbed up Big Leaf Maple, Quaking Aspen, Walnut, Dogwood, Alder, Oak & Crabapple. Defensible Space Works! ---PAGE BREAK--- 20 Forest Management Managing Forest Lands Washington’s forests provide tremendous benefits. Forests help to limit erosion and act as filters, purify- ing our water and air. In addition to producing timber and wood products that fuel our economy and warm our homes, our forests provide fish, game and wildlife habitat, opportunities for outdoor recreation and great natural beauty. Yet forests require active management to be healthy and grow vigorously. To be a good for- est manager, learn about the species that make up your forest. Jot down a few goals for what you want your forest to provide in the next 5, 10, and 30 years. Do you want to manage your land to attract wildlife? Differ- ent wildlife species have different needs. Do you want to grow big healthy trees and reduce wildfire risks, or plan to harvest to pay for retirement or a child’s edu- cation? Each of these goals requires active manage- ment. Consider writing a management plan for your land to help you define and achieve your goals. Forest Succession Forests are in a constant state of change. The stage of development your forest is in depends on how long it has been since the for- est’s last ma- jor distur- bance, or any event that drastically altered the composition or structure of the forest. Common disturbances here include: wildfire, logging or even a severe winter where many trees blow down. Determine what stage of succession your forest is in to help you determine management options for reaching your goals. Write a Plan to Meet Your Goals Forest Management Plans are changeable as your needs change and they reflect your goals. Writing your own plan can be as simple or complex as you want. See the Resources list for helpful publications. Be sure to include a map, property location, acres, con- ditions, & your 10 year plan for management activi- ties. Practices for Healthy Forests Consult with your local DNR Stewardship Forester, UCD, or a private consultant forester for specifics. •If you have root diseases on the site, make sure you are not planting species susceptible to the dis- ease. Consult an expert for advice. •Use seedlings that came from local seed sources. Most nurseries can provide trees grown from local sources. •Remove trees infected with diseases and insects, to reduce loss in nearby healthy trees. If you need to replant, ensure that you don’t use species susceptible to the same insect or disease. •Thin forests to maintain individual tree growth and health, and to reduce wildfire hazard. •Plant areas devoid of trees with locally adapted, na- tive species. Use light-loving species such as Doug- las-fir and ponderosa pine, that occur in your area. •Plant multiple species for diversity. If you have root diseases, make sure not to plant susceptible spe- cies. Tree Stocking Tree density is important for forest health. Trees without enough room will compete with one another for sunlight, water and soil nutrients and your forest will not grow at potential rates. In our area, forest lands may be overstocked due to past management and may need thinning to ensure healthy trees, vig- orous growth rates and fire safety. One way to tell if trees are crowded is to see if there are multiple tree within the drip line of each desirable tree. Shade tolerant shade intolerant species Forest Succession ---PAGE BREAK--- Forest Management, cont’d 21 Sustainable Forest Actions •Keep buffers strips of trees and shrubs along streams to shade them, protect water quality, prevent erosion and reduce chances of flooding. •Understand the roles that fire, disease and fungi play in tree growth, health and populations. •Leave travel corridors for wildlife. •Plant planning on tree growth. Thin trees when nec- essary. •Plant a variety of locally adapted species. Plant mostly shade-intolerant (sun-loving) tree species in open areas. Use a diversity of species when you can. •Find and identify and diseases, blights or parasitic fungi that may be present on your land. •Use seedlings that came from local seed sources. Most nurseries can provide trees grown from local sources. •Build temporary roads that can be covered and re- planted after harvesting and keep roads away from streams. Contact the DNR. •If you need to install a culvert, contact the DNR to ensure you aren’t blocking fish passage. •When logging, avoid damage to the stems and root systems of trees that you leave. Cont’d at right •Dispose of heavy concentrations of dead, down wood – “slash”- that constitute a fire hazard. •Leave some standing dead trees – “snags” – and large down logs. They are extremely valuable as wildlife habitat. •Consider secondary products that your land may produce in the under story while trees grow. Look into alternative forest products, agroforestry, and alley cropping. UCD sells native trees and shrubs during our annual tree sale. Place Orders Starting Dec. 1st. Zone Eleva- tion Species Westside Cas- cades (Skamania Co.) 0-2000 feet Douglas-fir, Western Hemlock, Western Redce- dar, Bigleaf Maple, Red Alder, Pacific Dogwood 2000- 5000 feet Douglas-fir, Mountain hemlock, Noble fir, Pacific Silver fir, Subalpine fir, Western White Pine, lodgepole pine Eastside Cascades (Eastern Skamania Co., Western Klickitat Co. 0-2000 feet Douglas-fir, Ponderosa pine, Grand fir, Oregon White Oak, Bigleaf Maple, Black Cottonwood, Willows, Pacific Dogwood, Pacific Yew, Quaking Aspen, Black Hawthorne 2000- 5000 feet Douglas-fir, Ponderosa pine, Grand fir, Pacific Silver Fir, Western Larch, Western White Pine, Noble fir, Subalpine fir, Western hemlock, Moun- tain hemlock, Black Cottonwood, Western Redce- dar, lodgepole pine Tree Distribution Ponderosa Pine and East Gorge from Catherine Creek. Photo: Jim White Resources •Contact the Department of Natural Resources for a copy WA’s Forest Practices Rules or find it online at: www.dnr.wa.gov See also Forest Practices, Small Forest Landowners Office, Fire and Burning Info. •Silviculture in Washington Family Forests, free from WSU publications: pubs.wsu.edu •WSU Extention: ext.wsu.edu/forestry ---PAGE BREAK--- 22 Forest Management, cont’d Learn about Forest Practices The Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR) manages Forest Practices. If you’re interested in harvesting timber, building or repairing forest roads, installing culverts, thinning your forest, or other forest practices, check with DNR to be sure you comply. Call [PHONE REDACTED] for questions about land in Skamania County or [PHONE REDACTED] for Klickitat County. What are Forest Practices Rules (FPAs)? FPAs are rules that protect soils, water, fish, wildlife and improvements (power lines, roads) from impacts related to forest practices on private, county and state forest land. Forest lands that have been managed poorly or logged without care can be sources of ero- sion and pollute our streams and rivers. Do I need to file a Forest Practices Application (FPA)? Forest practices that may require a FPA include: har- vesting timber, salvaging downed and standing wood, constructing forest roads, installing and replacing stream crossings on forest roads and applying forest chemicals. If you cut or remove less than 5000 board feet of timber for personal use during any 12 month period you are not required to fill out an FPA. Consult with your local DNR Office (see above). Programs for Forest Landowners -Environmental Quality Incentives Program, NRCS -Riparian Easement Program, DNR -Family Forest Fish Passage Program, DNR -Long Term Forest Practices Application, DNR -Conservation Reserve Enhancement Program Cultural Resources See the back of this handbook to find out how to de- termine if there are cultural resources on your prop- erty. Alternative Forest Products You may be able to find a local market for small di- ameter timber or woody biomass from thinning ac- tivities. Mount Adams Resource Stewards recently opened a log yard in Glenwood to add value to mul- tiple wood products generated at the same facility. This project uses forest products previously viewed as waste to stimulate rural economies and reduce the amount of woody materials burned annually in slash piles. To learn more about this and other projects, contact: Mt. Adams Resource Stewards: [PHONE REDACTED] www.mtadamsstewards.org Non-Timber Forest Products Firewood Beargrass Ferns Hazelnuts Mushrooms: Chanterelle Morel Boletus Chicken of the woods Lobster Matsutake Puffball Acorns Salal Flowers, Herbs & Medicinal Plants Pinecones Huckleberries Thimbleberries Salmonberries Serviceberries Elderberries Blueberries Fronds and Boughs Christmas Trees Lichens Mosses Biomass Planning Resources WSU Extension publications: pubs.wsu.edu EB2016 Forest Stewardship Planning workbook OSU Extension pubs: extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog EC 1125 Management Planning for Woodland Owners: Why and How (OSU) EC 1126 Management Planning for Woodland Owners: An Example Timber Management Plan (OSU) EC 1128 Estimating Site Productivity on Your Woodland and EC 1129 Tools for Measuring Your Forest From Dock Grade Photo: Adrianne Zuckerman ---PAGE BREAK--- Horticulture Resources 23 Gardens and Landscaping Like the majority of the Pacific Northwest, most of the moisture received annually falls between autumn and spring. Ensure the site you select for your garden will meet the needs of plants you want to grow. Plant hardiness zones can vary depending on elevation and microclimates, but zones in the District are gener- ally 6-8b. A rule of thumb for the area is not to plant your garden until snow has melted off Mt. Defiance. Native Pollinators Pollinators play an important role by moving pollen and ensuring plants are able to produce seeds and fruit. Native bees are North America’s most important group of pollinators. If you want to attract bees to your garden or orchard, consider installing nests for native bees on your property. Learn more about polli- nators and find nest designs and instructions from the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation at www.xerces.org/pollinator-conservation Bats are other important pollinators and they consume thousands of pest insects every day. Learn more about bats and find bat house plants at: www.batcon.org Irrigation Water Water is an extremely valuable resource. Irrigation water rights attached to a property should be disclosed with the sale of a property. Read your water right per- mit carefully to ensure you are within the use allotted by your permit. Don’t over water, you’ll waste soil and fertilizer as well as water. See more tips for out- door water conservation on page 9 & water permits on page 26. Soils Contact UCD for a paper copy of the Skamania County Web Soil Survey. The Klickitat County Sur- vey is online. See page 13 for information on soils, how to have a soil test done, where to find soil survey in- formation online. Creating Microclimates and WindBreaks Protect garden plants from wind, reduce home heat- ing costs , decrease erosion and pesticide drift and increase productivity of crop or rangeland by plant- ing wind barriers. Using native trees and shrubs in your windbreak will decrease maintenance and water needs and provide habitat for wildlife. Contact UCD for more information wind break design and installa- tion. Resources •Gorge Grown Food Network: www.gorgegrown.com •WSU Small Farm and Sustainable Agriculture: •WSU Small Farms Connection: smallfarms.wsu.edu/index.html OSU Small Farms: smallfarms.oregonstate.edu/ Contact your local Master Gardener WSU Klickitat County Extension www.klickitat.wsu.edu/masterg.html WSU Skamania County Extension skamania.wsu.edu/Hort.htm OSU Extension Mater Gardner Program [PHONE REDACTED] Resources NOAA Frost/Freeze Maps: www.ncdc.noaa.gov/ oa/climate/freezefrost/frostfreemaps.html •Hardiness Zone Maps: www.usna.usda.gov/ Hardzone/ushzmap.html •Office of the Washington State Climatologist www.climate.washington.edu/climate.html •WSU Ag Weather Net: weather.wsu.edu •Oregon Climate Service www.ocs.orst.edu/ page_links/climate_data_zones/climate_data.html Mt. Adams from Oregon Peach Orchard Photo: Adrianne Zuckerman ---PAGE BREAK--- 24 Livestock and Pasture Management Additional Resources •Horses for Clean Water: www.horsesforcleanwater.com •Reduce Mud and Keep Water Clean: Sacrifice Areas: clark.wsu.edu/horticulture/smallAcreageProgram/ sacrifice-areas.pdf •Managing Mud and Manure: www.or.nrcs.usda.gov/ news/factsheets/fs11.pdf Overgrazing Damages Grass Overgrazing will damage root systems and lead to unproduc- tive pastures. Don’t graze when grass is Adapted from: Pasture Management: Tips for Small Acreages in Oregon. Fact Sheet No. 6, 1999. Increase Pasture Productivity with Rotational Grazing Good pastures provide forage for your animals, absorb rainfall, filter runoff, and reduce erosion, all of which pro- tect streams. Close grazing can result in bare ground and mud leading to poor animal health, erosion, and nutrient runoff into ditches and streams. By managing your pastures, you can protect clean water and raise healthy animals. To prevent overgrazing and force animals to graze more evenly, try creating a rota- tional grazing scheme. Divide larger pastures into several, smaller pastures and rotate animals through these fields when grass is 3-4”. Temporary fencing (often electrified) works best to set up smaller fields and leaves flexibility to rearrange as necessary. Adapted from WSU Publication on Pasture Management Mud Matters Mud can make chore time unpleasant, increase fly breeding areas, transmit diseases, create unsafe footing, and increase polluted runoff. Often the best protection against mud is prevention. Reduce the amount of water that runs through your animal yard and you will reduce mud and polluted runoff. Tips to reduce runoff include: Install roof gutters. Install roof gutters and downspouts or French drains to divert clean water from the animal yard. A 1-inch rain on a 20-foot by 50-foot roof will produce 620 gallons! Design gutters to handle the amount of rainfall in your area. Use sacrifice areas. Move animals into a corral, run, or pen when pastures are wet in the winter or when grass is less than 3 inches high in the summer. By using a small enclosure such as a paddock or sacrifice area, you can protect the remaining pasture from damage when animals graze on wet ground. Locate a new sacrifice area on high ground and at least 100 feet away from wells and open water. Maintain a 25‘ grass buffer around the sacrifice area to filter polluted runoff. Widen the buffer if the sacrifice area slopes or is located near wet- lands, streams, or ditches. Protect downspouts. Protect gutter downspouts from animal and equipment damage by using heavy polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe, a hot wire, or a permanent barrier. Empty downspouts into a stock watering tank, rain barrel, dry well, tile line, French drain, road ditch, or creek before animal manure pollutes it. Control runoff Locate new animal yards at least 100 feet from wetlands, ditches, and streams. Curb concrete animal yards or use an earthen berm around animal yards that are close to water. Divert animal yard runoff away from wetlands, ditches, and streams and into a vegetated area that can filter the flow. Divert clean water above animal yards to water to reduce mud. Close open ditches with a buried pipe to carry water past farm-scapes. You may not be able to eliminate mud, but you can reduce the amount of mud you deal with daily. Tips to reduce mud and pollution include: Fence animals. Fence animals away from wetlands, streams, or ditches. Rotate water tank areas to avoid mud and manure buildup. Design drainage. Slope the animal yard with a 4 to 6 percent grade and use a southern aspect for quick drying. Use tile drainage to re- duce water in the animal yard and riding ring. Drain tile water into a buffer strip that can filter pollutants in runoff. ---PAGE BREAK--- Livestock and Pasture Management, cont’d 25 Manage Manure: Compost! Collect raw manure at least every other day and add it to a covered com- post pile. By covering and aerating your ma- nure pile, you will turn it into rich compost, a valu- able soil amendment for your pasture or garden. In addition, through composting your manure, you will reduce mud in your horse area, reduce parasites and bugs that bother you and your horse, reduce odors, re- duce the volume of your manure pile by half, and kill weed seeds. By spreading finished compost on your pastures, you’ll grow stronger, healthier, more nutritious grass, reduce weeds, improve water reten- tion and save money! For information on building your own low cost manure composting facility see be- low or call UCD. In contrast, improperly managed manure is a breeding ground for flies and other pests. Nutrients and bacteria from manure harm fish and wildlife if they wash into streams. Manure also pre- sents a potential source of pollution to local drinking water sources, such as a wells. Locate your compost bin where it will be easy to access daily. Cover it! Speed decomposition by aerating: drill holes into PVC pipes and pound them into the pile as shown. From: www.manuremaiden.com Install firm footing Muddy areas are often found at barn entrances, lanes, gates, and loafing areas. You can install concrete in these areas. However, geotextile fabric and gravel will provide an all-weather surface at a third of the cost. Geo- textile fabric allows water to drain down, but stops mud from working up through the gravel. Use a layer of geo- textile fabric next to the soil, a 4- to 6-inch layer of 1.5- inch minus crushed rock in the middle, and a 2- to 3-inch layer of 5/8-inch minus crushed rock on top to provide a firm surface. In areas with less animal traffic, consider using up to 18 inches of hogfuel or bark chips for footing. Hogfuel decomposes and needs to be periodically re- placed. Avoid using hogfuel near wetlands, streams, or ditches, as moisture will speed up decomposition. Source: Washington County Soil and Water Conserva- tion District (SWCD). Managing Mud and Manure: Tips for Small Acreages in Oregon. Fact Sheet No. 11, 1999. Online:www.or.nrcs.usda.gov/news/factsheets/ fs11.pdf Additional Resources •Strategies for Managing Manure: clark.wsu.edu/ horticulture/smallAcreageProgram/ •Manure Maiden: www.manuremaiden.com •How to Compost and Use Horse Manure: see www.kingcounty.gov under livestock-programs •Keeping Water Clean: Management Practices for Small Acreages: clark.wsu.edu/horticulture/ smallAcreageProgram/BMP-List.pdf Fencing Use fencing to keep animals out of streams and to keep pastures from being overgrazed. See Rotational Grazing at left. Photo courtesy of USDA/NRCS Sacrifice Area ---PAGE BREAK--- 26 Recycling, Solid Waste & Outdoor Burning Burning and Burn Permits • In Washington, it is illegal to burn garbage at any time. The use of burn barrels is prohibited. • It is illegal to burn construction and demolition debris. Only natural vegetation from your prop- erty and firewood are legal to burn. Burning may require a permit. Check with your local fire de- partment. For recreational fires in excess of 4’x4’x3’ a small fire permit is required. Call Ska- mania County Public Works at (509) 427-3920. In Klickitat County call (509) 575-2490. • Know and abide by burning regulations in your area. County and National Forest laws may differ. • Burn only when winds are light and do not exceed 7-10 miles per hours. • For larger burns, such as slash piles from a logging operation, contact your local DNR office. • Do not burn more than one fire at a time. • Keep sufficient tools and water on hand. • If you see someone you think is burning illegally, or if the smoke from someone’s fire is bother- ing you, call Ecology’s toll-free complaint line at 1-[PHONE REDACTED]. Electronic Waste Disposal Through the Oregon StRUT (Students Recycling Used Technology) program, students take donated computers and computer components and upgrade them for the use in schools. Students evaluate, repair and refurbish donated computers and in turn donate those computers to local schools. Students gain valu- able skills and schools get free computers. See: www.oregonstrut.org or call (541) 296-2630 for more information and locations. See earth911.com/ in recycling locations for other electronic waste Household Hazardous Waste Identifying common household hazardous wastes: Look for DANGER, WARNING, CAUTION on the container's label. Do not mix, apply, or dispose of weed control chemicals, used motor oil or other toxic substances where they can leach into groundwater. Free disposal may be available. Contact your County solid waste disposal provider (see above left). Recycling and Solid Waste Recyclable materials are accepted for free at Transfer Stations Klickitat County Recycling and Solid Waste Dis- posal Locations: Transfer station locations: BZ Corners, Dallesport, Goldendale, at the Roosevelt Regional Landfill Call [PHONE REDACTED] or see web page for current operat- ing schedule, list of recyclables and composting info www.klickitatcounty.org/SolidWaste Skamania County Recycling and Solid Waste Dis- posal Locations: Transfer stations in Skamania County accept recy- clables and solid waste. Transfer Station Locations: Stevenson , Underwood , and Mt. Pleasant. Call [PHONE REDACTED] or see the web page for current op- erating schedule www.skamaniacounty.org/ Public_Works/Solid%20Waste/ solid_waste_division.htm Annual Solid Waste Events: White Salmon Community Pride Skamania County Earth Day Contact your county for details. Don’t Trash Usable Items! Organize a garage sale, donate to WGAP or Second Hand Rose in Bingen or use these sites to give away items you no longer need: Second Hand Rose, Bingen Thrift Store: [PHONE REDACTED] portland.craigslist.org/grg/zip - this is the Gorge subsection classifieds.gorge.net - anyone with internet service through Gorge.Net can list items www.freecycle.org - search for the Columbia River Gorge com- munity zwaggle.com/ - list kid and baby items here ---PAGE BREAK--- Composting 27 Reduce Waste & Enrich Soil: Compost! Composting is easy and cheap, you can cut down your garbage by hundreds of pounds each year, and create a mixture that can be used to improve the soil. If you have kitchen scraps, leaves or grass clippings you al- ready have what you need to compost. Getting Started Get your own compost bin started in three simple steps: Make a compost binv or buy one, throw in your kitchen scraps and yard waste, and mix it up with a shovel or pitchfork once in a while. 1. Begin with the bin: Location, location, location. Pick a spot in your yard that's at least par- tially shaded and at least 2 feet from a structure like your house or a fence. Other considerations: • Location: easy to monitor & add to • Access to water • Good drainage Containers: You can compost in a sim- ple pile, but using a container or bin helps your compost pile retain heat and moisture and look neat. To get started, it's easy to go with a single bin system. As materials are added and mixed to- gether, the finished compost settles to the bottom of the bin. Materials: You can build bins from scrap lumber, old pallets, chicken wire, or concrete blocks. Search online for plans to build your own or visit Rhein- garten Park in White Salmon to see some examples. Size. A pile that is 1 cubic yard (3 feet high, 3 feet wide, 3 feet long) is big enough to retain heat and moisture, but small enough be easily turned. Home compost piles shouldn't be larger than 5' x 5' x 2. Add the first materials: An equal mixture of brown autumn leaves and fresh grass clippings will give you an good composting com- bination. New composters shouldn't worry about the precise mixture though; as you gain experience, you can fine-tune your compost’s composition. A. Lay a base. Start with a layer of browns. First lay down 4-6 inches of twigs or other coarse carbons on the bottom of the pile for good air circulation. Resources •www.klickitatcounty.org/solidwaste •www.stopwaste.org •www.compostwashington.org •Search for "Backyard Magic" Composting Hand- book, online at the New Brunswick Canada Depart- ment of the Environment B. Alternate greens and browns. Add layers of nitro- gen (green) and carbon (brown) materials. Make layers 4-6 inches thick. When you turn the pile the first time, these materials will get mixed together and compost more efficiently. C. Size does matter. Materials will decompose faster if they are broken or chopped into smaller pieces. Water as you go. Your compost pile should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge, but not soaking wet. Your pile will get water from rain, as well as the moisture in the greens — fresh grass clippings are nearly 80% water by weight. If the pile gets too wet, you can turn it more frequently to dry it, or add dry brown materials to soak up the excess moisture. 3. Mix the pile: Once you build your pile, the real composters get to work — bacteria, fungi and insects help break down the materials in your compost bin. As the organic ma- terials decompose, your pile will get warm on the in- side and you might see some steam. In about a week, your compost will be ready for turning. Use a pitchfork or shovel to mix up the layers of green and brown and move materials toward the center of the pile. You can empty your bin and re-layer, or just work materials around inside the bin. Break up clumps of material and wet the pile as needed. 4. Cover your bin in winter: Too much rain will make your pile too wet and nu- trients from the pile may pollute run-off water. 5. Repeat until it's complete: The composting process goes more quickly in the summer months. Your compost pile may no longer heat up after just a few weeks. Look in your pile for finished compost — material that is dark and crumbly, fresh-smelling, and no longer looks like what you originally put into your bin. Turn your pile if nothing is happening. Adapted from www.reduce.org Inexpensive materials like pallets or chicken wire can be used to make simple compost enclo- sures. ---PAGE BREAK--- The Western Gray Squirrels are the largest native tree squir- rels in Washington. Photo: WDFW Protection of Streams and Wetlands Permits must be obtained to dredge, drain, fill, remove vegetation, or otherwise alter waters in the U.S. includ- ing wetlands. Below is a list of some permits that apply to projects in or near streams and wetlands. In WA, one permit application is needed to apply to these multi- ple permit agencies, the Joint Aquatic Resources Permit Application (JARPA). Contact UCD or the Office of Regulatory Assistance for more information: (800) 917- 0043, www.ora.wa.gov Hydraulics Permit: Work, development or construction that will use, divert or in any way change the natural flow of any water body may require a Hydraulics Pro- ject Approval Permit. Also required if discharging wa- ter into streams and/or wetlands. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife: (360) 696-6211, wdfw.wa.gov Shoreline Permit: Land use or development within the 100-year flood plain or within 200 feet of certain water bodies, wetlands and deltas may require a Shoreline De- velopment Permit. Skamania County Planning Department:(509) 427-3900 www.skamaniacounty.org/Departments.htm Klickitat County Planning Department: (800) 765-7239 www.klickitatcounty.org/Planning Water Rights A Water Use Permit is required before diverting, im- pounding (creating a pond) or withdrawing surface or ground water. Contact: Washington Department of Ecology, Water Review Program SW Region: 360-407- 6058, www.ecy.wa.gov. Access Water Right records through Dept. of Ecology’s Public Records Coordina- tor: (509) 454-7658. Washington Rivers Conservancy is also available to assist with water right issues or in- vestigations: (509) 881-7689, www.warivers.org Water Quality Protection It is illegal to pollute surface or ground water. The landowner is responsible for preventing manure, pesti- cides, sediment and other pollutants from reaching wetlands, waterways and groundwater. Use this book- let and the following resources to protect the quality of your water. A Construction Stormwater Permit from WA Dept. of Ecology is required for any construction project disturbing 1 acre or more: www.ecy.wa.gov In Skamania County, call: (360) 407-6300 In Klickitat County, call: (509) 575-2490 WA State Department of Agriculture is responsible for regulating livestock operations to prevent water pollution: www.agr.wa.gov Stocking Fish in Your Pond or Stream A permit is required to transport or stock any species of fish in and lake, pond, river or stream. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife: (360) 696-6211 , wdfw.wa.gov Fish Screens Fish screens are required for all irrigation and surface water diversions in order to keep fish from getting caught in ditches and pipes. WDFW can assist with fish screen specifications and design. Another local resource for state-of-the-art fish screen technology is the Farmers Conservation Alliance in Hood River, OR: (541) 716-6085, www.fcasolutions.org State Environmental Policy Act (SEPA) SEPA is a process to ensure that environmental im- pacts are being evaluated when projects are proposed. A SEPA application my be required prior to the issu- ing of permits contact: WA Dept. of Ecology’s Environmental Review Sec- tion, SEPA Board: (360) 407-7448. 28 Regulatory Considerations and Resources ---PAGE BREAK--- Noxious Weeds The landowner is responsible for controlling many nox- ious weed species, according to WA law. Discover which weeds are noxious in your area and how to best control them. Skamania County Noxious Weed Control Board: (509) 427-3940 www.skamaniacounty.org/weeds/noxious_weed_board.htm Klickitat County Noxious Weed Control Board: (509) 773-5810, www.klickitatcounty.org/WeedControl Underwood Conservation District can also help identify weeds and recommend management practices. Cultural Resources In Washington, excavation or removal of archaeological materials, including Native American artifacts, may re- quire a permit from the WA State Department of Ar- cheology and Historic Preservation. The presence of other types of historic sites may also limit certain devel- opment or disturbance. Consider having an archeologi- cal survey done, or consult with Yakama Nation, before ground disturbing activities take place. Contact the Dept. of Archeology and Historic Preservation for more information: (360)586-3065, www.dahp.wa.gov Air Quality Protection Authority over air quality may be regulated by local, state or federal agencies, and is generally based on loca- tion and activity causing air quality problem. Check with your local clean air agency for burn bans or other restriction throughout the year. Southwest Clean Air Agency: 1-[PHONE REDACTED], www.swcleanair.org Septic Systems A Sewage Disposal Permit is required before disposing of any sewage through septic tanks and drain fields. Septic systems also need regular inspection and main- tenance. Call your local county health department for assistance with septic system installation, inspection or maintenance: Skamania County Health Department: (509) 427-3881 www.skamaniacounty.org/EnvirHealth/ EnvirHealth.htm Klickitat County Health Department: (509) 773-4565 www.klickitatcounty.org/Health Building and Construction Permits are required by counties and cities to construct permanent buildings or additions. Skamania County Planning Department:(509) 427-3900 www.skamaniacounty.org/Departments.htm Klickitat County Planning Department: (800) 765-7239 www.klickitatcounty.org/Planning Forest Practices Forest Practices including re-foresting, harvesting, fer- tilizing, road building, insect and disease control, sal- vaging trees and applying chemicals may require a For- est Practices Permit. UCD has additional resources to help you determine whether you need a Forest Prac- tices Permit, and WA DNR is responsible for enforc- ing these permits. Washington State Department of Natural Resources: SW Region: (360) 902-1400, www.dnr.wa.gov Small Forest Landowners Office: [PHONE REDACTED] , www.dnr.wa.gov/BusinessPermits/Topics/ SmallForestLandownerOffice Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area Much of the Columbia River Corridor in Skamania and Klickitat Counties is part of the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area, authorized in 1986 to protect and enhance the scenic, natural, cultural, and recreational resources of the gorge. New land uses and ground dis- turbing activities need to be in compliance with Scenic Area ordinances. Policies guiding activities in the Sce- nic Area are determined by the Columbia River Gorge Commission. If you own land in the Scenic Area, con- tact your county planning department or the Columbia River Gorge Commission: (509) 493- Regulatory Considerations and Resources, cont’d. 29 ---PAGE BREAK--- Goals or Notes ---PAGE BREAK--- ---PAGE BREAK--- 170 NW Lincoln St P.O. Box 96 White Salmon, WA 98672 [PHONE REDACTED] http://w3.gorge.net/ucd Underwood Conservation District