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So Many Options!! Questions or need more information? Contact your local Conservation District http://tinyurl.com/LocalCD Rain- Water Use it or Lose it! Rainwater is a valuable (and FREE) resource – collecting it for summer watering is a great way to save money, conserve water, and have healthy plants! HEALTH & SAFETY TIPS Save money! Rainwater is FREE, minus some one-time set up costs for your collection system. It saves money on utility bills and may conserve energy/electricity you may be using to pump well water. USING YOUR COLLECTED RAINWATER How clean is the water? ? Look inside for answers about: Rain barrels vs. cisterns HOW MUCH CAN I COLLECT? WHY COLLECT RAINWATER? Conserve drinking water Residential irrigation and other outdoor uses can account for as much as 40% of water consumption. Water conservation measures, such as collecting rainwater and more effi cient watering practices, reduces the demand on your personal well or municipal and community water system. Other ways to reduce your yard’s water consumption are to use native and other drought-tolerant plants and limit the amount of space devoted to thirsty lawns. Reduce stormwater runoff By collecting and storing rainwater for later use, you reduce storm- water runoff from your roof. Stormwater runoff can pick up harmful pollutants and carry them to your local stream and Puget Sound. Better for plants Rainwater is un-treated, oxygenated, pH neutral, and naturally free of chemicals. Your plants will love it! © 2011 Whidbey Island Conservation District www.whidbeycd.org ---PAGE BREAK--- HOW MUCH RAINWATER CAN I COLLECT? The amount of rainwater you can collect depends on your storage capacity and your roof area. How to calculate your rainwater collection volume: Measure square feet (sf) of catchment area Length x width of contributing roof area = sf of catch- ment area. (Note: don’t take into ac- count the pitch, or slant of your roof, but do be sure to only include the portion of your roof emptying into rain barrels.) Plug your catchment total square feet (sf) into the formula below. Square feet (sf) of catchment area x effi ciency (0.8 for composite roofi ng) OR (0.9 for metal) x rainfall in feet (inches/12) x 7.48 conversion factor = gallons of rainwater available annually Example: 1200 x 0.8 x 2.5 ft. x 7.48 = 17,952 gallons Rainwater is great for plants, but not for drinking. Many wood (cedar) and some asphalt shingles are treated against rot, which may make them toxic. Avoid using any roof runoff from a treated roof for vegetable watering purposes. Moss-killing methods, from zinc strips to zinc or copper-based moss killer and copper gutters can leach into roof runoff. If you use any of these moss-killing methods, roof runoff should not be used on your plants. Watering Your Vegetable Garden Rainwater is great for watering trees, lawns and fl owers. However, if you are using this water on your vegetable garden, exercise caution. Use it with drip, furrow, or trickle irrigation, and do not use it for over- head irrigation, particularly with leafy greens. Read “How clean is the water?” to better understand when your rainwater might pose a special risk to vegetable gardening. Always thoroughly wash vegetables with fresh tap water before consuming. This (and your budget, of course) will help you determine how many barrels you will need, or if a cistern would be a better option. Rain barrels and cisterns can be purchased for as low as $0.50/gallon of capacity (i.e. a 1,500 gallon cistern costs about $750). SETTING UP YOUR COLLECTION SYSTEM cover any barrels or cisterns to keep debris, animals, and children from falling in. Locate rain barrels or the cistern as close to where you plan to use them as possible. Put gravity to work for you! Raise barrels up on cinder blocks. This will also help with hose and bucket access to the spigot. Locate the cistern at the highest possible point of your yard so you’ll have as much downhill fl ow as possible. Irrigation, such as a drip system or soaker hose, can be used but may require a pump because gravity alone may not provide enough pressure. Collected rainwater could be benefi cially re-used for some non-potable indoor uses, such as cold water clothes washing and toilet fl ushing. Contact your local county, town, or city jurisdiction to fi nd out if it is permitted in your area. Regular soil testing is recommended where edible plants are irrigated with collected rainwater. To further reduce the risk of contamination, you can divert the “First Flush.” The “fi rst fl ush,” or fi rst few minutes of a rain storm, can be diverted away from your collection system. Most literature cites 5-10 gal- lons of water per 1,000 square feet of roof area should be diverted. This can be accomplished through a manual valve that you open and close, or a diverter tank or receptacle that is plumbed into the line from the downspout prior to the tank or bar- rel. Diverting the fi rst fl ush is especially important if a moss removal or other treatment was recently applied to the roof. • Permits & Modifi cations - The size and cmplexity of your system may require a building or plumbing permit or modifi cation approval from your local city, town or county. For example: • Above-ground cisterns 5,000 gallons or larger • Irrigation systems or excessive pipe runs Electrical permits may be required for pump systems connected to a 110 volt system. Contact Labor & Industries at http://tinyurl.com/LOCALLNI. • DO NOT drink rainwater - County Health Depart- ments agree that collected rainwater is not fi t for human consumption and should be used only for non-potable uses such as: 1. Irrigation – lawn and garden 2. Car washing 3. Power washing 4. General non-potable outdoor usage 5. House plants • Secure the barrel(s) to the house - When full, a 50 gallon rain barrel can weigh well over 400 pounds. Be sure the barrels are sitting on top of a strong, safe base, like cinder blocks, and strap the barrels to the house with metal straps screwed to studs (not just siding), similar to what you do to make your hot water heater earthquake-proof. •Always direct the overfl ow runoff away from your house foundation! Use a splash block under the overfl ow pipe or hose, or route it to a vegetated area. •Be sure to use window screening at all openings to prevent mosquitoes from getting in and out. Do Not Drink Collected Rainwater • • • Cisterns allow you to capture the THOUSANDS of gallons of water running off your roof annually! Rain Barrels vs. Cisterns Cisterns can be above ground or below ground and typically hold hundreds of gallons of water. Rain barrels are located above ground, hold less water and are not considered permanent structures. Both may require a pumping system. Think about all the things you use water for in the summer and how much you could replace with collected rainwater. NOTE: Rainfall amounts vary from year to year and by location. Further investigation is recommended. http://www.idcide.com/ weather/wa/ 16-22 22-28 28-36 36-40 40-48 48-56 56-70 70+ AVERAGE ANNUAL RAINFALL (in inches) indicates Conservation District Boundaries HEALTH & SAFETY TIPS THERE ARE SEVERAL RULES OF THUMB WHEN IT COMES TO RAINWATER COLLECTION: ---PAGE BREAK--- HOW TO MAKE A RAIN BARREL There are many different types, sizes, and styles of rain barrels, and even more possibilities for plumbing combinations. You may even have some parts on hand that will help get the job done, or visit your local hardware store for some help selecting the right parts. Plumbing connections: All connections to the barrel should be threaded (male threads), wrapped in teflon tape and/or coated in silicone or similar sealant, and screwed tight to the barrel. Adding a washer or rubber gasket will provide extra seal/leak protection. On the inside of the barrel, a tank fitting or other open-ended part with female threads should be attached to help hold the fittings tight to the bar - rel to prevent leaks. ¾” MALE ADAPTER (screws into the outside of the barrel) and ¾“ FEMALE ADAPTER (screws onto threads from the inside of the barrel) VERY IMPORTANT NOTES: • Allow silicone or sealant to fully dry (at least 24 hrs) before connecting other parts or hoses, and before connecting your barrels to the downspout. • Typically, fittings are ¾” PVC (plastic). Brass fittings will hold up better over time, but are more expensive and may be more difficult to find. • Overflow fittings may need to be larger in di - ameter if you’re collecting a large roof area into a single barrel, or simply divert the downspout once the barrel is full. • Drill holes with a spade bit the same outer diam- eter as the part you’re installing. For example, ¾” parts, have a 1” outer diameter, Cover all openings: To prevent mosquitoes from getting into the barrel and breeding, cover all openings with window screen mesh. EVERY BARREL SETUP NEEDS: 1. Inlet on the top of the barrel. The style of inlet will depend on the type of barrel you buy; it may have a fully open top, which will need to be covered with screen or 1/4 inch mesh to keep debris and mosquitoes out. If the barrel has a top, you will need to cut a hole large enough to accommodate the downspout or downspout extender. 2. A Secure Lid or covered opening to keep animals and children from falling in. 3. Overflow spigot or hose adapter should be near the top of the barrel for when it is full. Use parts you can connect to a hose so you can route the excess water away from your home’s foundation. 4. Base – the surface you place your rain barrel(s) on should be level and should raise the barrels up enough to get a watering can underneath the spigot. The base should be sturdy enough to hold the weight of a full barrel (over 400 pounds!). Cinderblocks work well. 5. Spigot (typically brass) near the bottom of the barrel, with possibility for hose connection. 6. Downspout extender or elbow – depending on the height of the roof, barrels, and length of gutter you are adapting, you may need a downspout extender (flexible plastic piece that attaches to the gutter) or a 45° elbow to direct flow to the inlet. OPTIONAL, but recommended, is a leaf guard or screen in the gutter above the downspout to keep leaves and debris from clogging the inlet. There are a few vital components and assem- bly methods. Follow the guidance below, and with the assistance of some- one from the plumbing aisle, you’ll be in business! HAVE FUN! BE INNOVATIVE! ---PAGE BREAK--- 3 or more barrels – To simplify and reduce the number of holes drilled, the connections should be on the front of each barrel. The barrel on the end will have a 90° elbow with a hose barb, the other barrel(s) will have a “tee” fitting with hose barbs to connect short, flexible hoses between each barrel. The inlet should be on one end of the line, and the overflow should be on the other end of the line. CONNECTING MULTIPLE BARRELS If you choose to connect more than one barrel, it is most efficient to connect them at the bottom so that they fill and drain simultaneously, as a system. If you connect them at the top, you’ll need a spigot on each barrel to get the water out of all of them. 2 barrels – fittings similar to those used for the overflow can inserted into the sides of each barrel and then connected with a short, flexible hose or tubing secured with hose clamps. A hot water heater hose could also be used to con- nect two barrels. The inlet should be on one barrel and the overflow on the 2nd. Note: Hose clamps will help hold the hose ends tight to the fittings to prevent leaks. MAINTAINING YOUR RAIN BARREL OR CISTERN 1. Rinse your barrel at the end of each season. During the rainy season, small debris and sediment will slip through the holes in the screen or mesh and settle to the bottom of your barrel. Give it a good rinse and scrub off any algae growth at the end of each summer. 2. Monitor the system regularly to ensure intakes and overflows are not blocked with leaves and other debris from the roof. 3. Check your roof and gutters often. Remove any leaves, branches, dirt or other litter. 4. Trim or remove any plant materials that over- hang your house - animals often use these to access your roof and gutters. This will also reduce the leaves and litter clogging your gutters. 5. Check your barrel or cistern and its cover. Make sure the cover is secure and does not allow animals to fall, creep, crawl or jump in. 6. Prevent ice damage – If a long, cold spell (below 32° for several consecutive days) is predicted, it is recommended you drain your barrels and disconnect them from the downspout to avoid any damage from freezing. Once the cold snap is over, reconnect your barrels and they’ll be refilled in no time! American Rainwater Catchment Systems Association News and information and examples of rainwater col- lection systems. Web site has a business directory with links to local suppliers, etc. www.arcsa-usa.org Local Feed and Hardware Stores and Co-ops More and more stores are carrying rain barrels, ready to connect, and can often order larger tanks and cisterns. The Tank Depot - www.tank-depot.com Search on Craigslist: http://seattle.craigslist.org/ (key words; rain barrel or food grade barrels) PremierPlastics.com Distributors of light weight, high strength, and corrosion free polyethylene storage tanks for drinking water, rain water, chemicals and septic systems. Plastic-mart.com One-stop shopping site for all types of molded plastic storage and transportation containers, including custom sizing and design. Your Local Conservation District Provides free technical assistance to landowners, including calculations and rainwater collection system design. Find yours at http://tinyurl.com/LocalCD RAIN WATER COLLECTION RESOURCES