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L I V I N G W I T H F I R E A GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER 1aiE for CZ ---PAGE BREAK--- T he Northern Rockies is an area where fire has always played a prominent role in the natural environment. Long before towns and subdivi sions were established across the landscape, fires were a natural result of the freTuent summer thunderstorms that travelled across the mountains and plains. +owever, decades of fire supression have resulted in fuel conditions in certain forest communities, that have the potential to create intense wildfires. :ithin this natural fire envi ronment, there are individual houses, subdivisions, and entire communities. Many homes, however, would be unable to survive an intense wildfire. 6ince it is not a Tuestion of ³if´ wildfires will occur but ³when,´ they will occur, the likelihood of human life and property loss is great and growing. Our ability to live more safely in this fire environment greatly depends upon our use of ³prefire activities.´ Prefire activities are actions taken before a wildfire occurs which improve the surviv ability of people and homes. They include proper vegetation manage ment around the home known as defensible space , use of fire resistant building materials, appropriate subdivision design, and other measures. 5esearch clearly demonstrates that prefire activities save lives and property. LIVING IN A NATURAL FIRE ENVIRONMENT Fire is a natural part of our environ- ment. Our forests and rangelands were burning long before there were settlements in the Pacific Northwest. + + With more people using our wildlands, there is a greater chance of fire starts. + Today’s wildfires can burn intensely and be difficult to control. People are living in this fire environ- ment. Many homes are built and maintained without regard to wildfire. Potential for: • Greater loss of life • Increased property losses • More damage to natural resources • More money needed for firefighting. = L I V I N G W I T H The pre-fire activities implemented by this homewowner included a green and well main- tained landscape, reduction of wildland vegetation around the perimeter of the property, a fire resistant roof, and a good access road with a turnaround area. The charred surround- ings of the home show that these pre-fire activities effectively protected it when wildfire hit. THE “WHY WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT WILDFIRE” EQUATION THE “LIVING WITH FIRE” PROJECT Photograph courtesy of California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection. Cover photograph courtesy of :DOGrRQ vLeZ RI /RZ\erSOe[ QeDr North Central Idaho Fire Prevention Cooperative ---PAGE BREAK--- WIND DEAD END THE FIRE ENVIRONMENT Firefighters recognize three components of the fire environment: weather, topography and fuel. These components affect the likelihood of a fire starting, the speed and direction at which a wildfire will travel, the intensity at which a wildfire burns and the ability to control and extinguish a wildfire. Although weather and topography cannot be changed, the fuels (or vegetation) can be modified. Consequently, many of our opportunities to reduce the wildfire threat lie in proper management and manipulation of wildland vegetation. WEATHER: Dry, hot and windy weather increases the likelihood of a major wildfire. These conditions make ignition easier, allow fuels to burn more rapidly and increase fire intensity. High wind speeds, in particular, can transform a small, easily controllable fire into a catastrophic event in a matter of minutes. TOPOGRAPHY: Of topographic features, steepness of slope most influences fire behavior. As the steepness of slope increases, the fire spreads more quickly. Other important topographic features include aspect (south and southwest slopes usually have more fires) and steep, narrow drainages (chimneys), which can significantly increase the rate of firespread. FUEL: Fuel is required for any fire to burn. In regard to wildfire, fuels almost always consist of living vegetation (trees, shrubs, grass, and wildflowers) and dead plant material (dead trees, dried grass, fallen branches, pine needles, etc.). Houses, when involved in a wildfire, become a source of fuel. The amount, size, moisture content, arrangement and other fuel characteristics influence ease of ignition, rate of fire spread, length of flames produced and other fire behaviors. THE HUMAN ENVIRONMENT: When people are living in high-hazard fire environments, the human-built environment becomes an important factor in predicting the loss of life and property. Untreated wood shake and shingle roofs, narrow roads, limited access, lack of fire-wise landscaping, inadequate water supplies and poorly planned subdivisions are examples of increased risk to people living with the threat of wildfire. ---PAGE BREAK--- 8 1/2 EXAMPLES OF LOCAL FIRE BEHAVIOR* Presented below are five types of vegetation common to our region with computer generated estimates of how they would burn under certain condi- tions. These predications assume a wind speed of 20 mph, flat terrain, typical moisture contents of living and dead vegetation for summertime, and normal August weather for our area. I t is important to note that fire size and rate of spread is largely determined by spotting (embers/firebrands that are thrown ahead and to the sides of actively burning fires). Spotting results in smaller fires that may contribute to the main fire size and rate of spread. CHEATGRASS: Cheatgrass is an invasive annual grass that usually occupies areas formerly vegetated with big sagebrush. It can dominate old burned areas, abandoned pastures, and other disturbed areas. v MIXED BRUSH: This represents a variety of brush species of varying heights with an understory of grasses and litter. This type is very common in the foothills sur- rounding the valleys. Travels at 1/2 mph BIG SAGEBRUSH/BITTERBRUSH: This is a heavy brush type consisting of large big sagebrush, bitterbrush, and sometimes mountain mahogany. Usually large amounts of dead woody material are present. DENSE CONIFER FOREST: Thick stand of mature pine, fir and other conifers. There are mixed layers of vegetation among young trees, seedlings and shrubs. There is a large amount of dead or down woody material, needles and organic matter on the forest floor. 15 acres can burn after one hour. OPEN PINE FOREST: This type consists of open, park- like lodgepole and/or ponderosa pine, often interspersed with fir and other coniferous trees. The understory consists of pine needles, a variety of grasses, and often dense saplings. THE LIMITATIONS OF WILDLAND FIREFIGHTING A lot of people assume that when a wildfire starts, it will be quickly controlled and extin- guished. This is an accurate assumption 97% of the time. Firefighters have the ability, equipment, and technology to effectively suppress most wildfires. But 3% of the time wildfires burn so intensely that there is little firefighters can do. Presented at right are firefighter tactics as they relate to wildfire flame length. Compare this to the flame shown in “Examples of Local Fire Behavior.” 3,000 acres can burn after one hour. 150 acres can burn after one hour. 3,400 acres can burn after one hour. When wildfire flame exceed 11 feet, direct firefighting efforts are ineffective. Under these conditions firefighters use roads, streams, and other barriers to control the wildfire. FLAME LENGTH Less than 4 feet 4 to 8 feet 8 to 11 feet More than 11 feet EFFECTIVE FIRE SUPPRESSION TACTICS* Fireline constructed with hand tools, such as shovels and axes, can be effective at the front of the fire. Bulldozers and other heavy equipment will be needed to construct an effective fireline. Where bulldozers are not available, fire engines with hoses and water will be required to “knock down” the flames before the fire crews with hand tools can be effective. Or, fire crews must construct a fireline at a considerable distance from the fire. Airtankers with fire suppressing retardant or helicopters with water are required to reduce the fire’s rate of spread before fireline construction by crews or bulldozers can be effective. Direct fire suppression efforts will be ineffective. Retreat to existing roads, streams and other barriers. Burn out vegetation between the fireline and the advancing fire front to eliminate wildfire fuels. 5,900 acres can burn after one hour. Photograph courtesy of Ben Hammack. CROWN FIRES: Crown fires occur when a ladder of vegetation allows fire to climb to tops of pine and fir trees. Flames can jump 100+ feet high and send burning embers more than a mile away . ---PAGE BREAK--- THE THREE R’s OF DEFENSIBLE SPACE This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particu- larly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are cutting down a dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub. The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitute reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from a shrub, removing low tree branches, and mowing dried grass. Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for more haz- ardous vegetation. Removal of a dense stand of flammable shrubs and planting an irrigated, well maintained flower bed is an example of replacement. Removal Reduction Replacement FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE More and more homes are being built in high fire hazard environments (Lolo Complex near Kamiah, ID). HOW DO I CHANGE THE VEGETATION ON MY PROPERTY TO REDUCE THE WILDFIRE THREAT? The objective of defensible space is to reduce the wildfire threat to a home by changing the characteristics of the adjacent vegetation. Defensible space practices include: • increasing the moisture content of vegetation. • decreasing the amount of flammable vegetation. • shortening plant height. • altering the arrangement of plants. This is accomplished through the “Three R’s of Defensible Space.” The article “Creating An Effective Defensible Space” provides detailed information about changing vegetation charac- teristics for defensible space. In the 1980’s, the term “defensible space” was coined to describe vegetation management prac- tices aimed at reducing the wildfire threat to homes. This article responds to some of the commonly asked questions about defensible space. WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Defensible space is the area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified to reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity for firefighters to effectively defend the house. Some- times, a defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properly maintained backyard. WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT? Many people do not view the plants growing on their property as a threat. But in terms of wildfire, the vegeta- tion adjacent to their homes can have considerable influence upon the survivability of their houses. All vegetation, including plants native to the area as well as ornamental plants, is potential wildfire fuel. If vegetation is properly modified and maintained, a wildfire can be slowed, the length of flames shortened, and the amount of heat reduced, all of which assist firefighters to defend the home against an oncoming wildfire. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED TO PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY BOTHER WITH DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Some individuals incorrectly assume that a fire engine will be parked in their driveway and firefighters will be actively defending their homes if a wildfire approaches. During a major wildfire, it is unlikely there will be enough firefighting resources available to defend every home. In these instances, firefighters will likely select homes they can most safely and effectively protect. Even with adequate resources, some wildfires may be so intense that there may be little firefighters can do to prevent a house from burning. The key is to reduce fire intensity as wildfire nears the house. This can be accomplished by reducing the amount of flammable vegetation surrounding a home. Consequently, the most important person in protecting a house from wildfire is not a firefighter, but the property owner. And it’s the action taken by the owner before the wildfire occurs (such as proper landscaping) that is most critical. DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OF BARE GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE? No. Unfortunately, many people have this misconception. While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing the wildfire threat, it is unnecessary and unacceptable due to appearance, soil erosion, and other reasons. Many homes have attractive, well vegetated landscapes that also serve as effective defensible space. DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT? No. For the most part, creating a defensible space employs routine gardening and landscape maintenance practices such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plant removal, appropriate plant selection, and irrigation. Equipment needed includes of common tools like a chain saw, pruning saw, pruning shears, loppers, weed-eater, shovel, and a rake. A chipper, compost bin, or a large rented trash dumpster may be useful in disposing of unwanted plant material. HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE? Defensible space size is not the same for everyone, but varies by slope and type of wildland vegetation growing near the house. See the article entitled “Creating An Effective Defensible Space” for specific information. DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE? Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfire indicate that houses with an effective defensible space are much more likely to survive a wildfire. Furthermore, homes with both an effective defensible space and a nonflam- mable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal, etc.) are many times more likely to survive a wildfire than those without defensible space and flammable roofs (wood shakes or shingles). These conditions give firefighters the opportunity to effectively and safely defend the home. DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARAN- TEE MY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE? No. Under extreme conditions, almost any house can burn. But having a defensible space will significantly improve the odds of your home surviving a wildfire. WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGH WILD- FIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLE SPACE? The specific reasons for not creating a defensible space are varied. Some individuals believe “it won’t happen to me”. Others think the costs (time, money, effort, loss of privacy, etc.) outweigh the benefits. Some fail to imple- ment defensible space practices simply because of lack of knowledge or misconceptions. Photograph courtesy of Robert Millage Photograph courtesy of Steve Creech Lolo Canyon behind Harrisburg & Woodland Juncion near Kamiah, ID ---PAGE BREAK--- 100feet 200feet 200feet 30feet 100feet 200feet CREATING AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE* Step-by-Step Guide Are you worried about the wildfire threat to your home, but aren’t sure how to get started in making your home defensible? Follow these six steps to an effective defensible space... STEP ONE: HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE? The size of the defensible space area is usually e[pressed as a distance e[tending outward from the sides of the house. This distance varies by the type of wildland vegetation growing near the house and the steepness of the terrain. On the ³5ecommended 'efensible 6pace 'istance´ chart presented below, find the vegetation type and percent slope see ³+omeowners *uide to Calculating Percent 6lope´ which best describes the area where your house is located. Then find the recommended defensible space distance for your situation. For e[ample, if your property is surrounded by wildland grasses such as cheatgrass, and is located on flat land, your recommended defensible space distance would e[tend feet from the sides of the house. If your house is on a slope and the adMacent wildland vegetation is dense tall brush, your recommended defensible space distance would be feet. If the recommended distance goes beyond your property boundaries, contact the adMacent property owner and work cooperatively on creating a defensible space. The effectiveness of defensible space increases when multiple property owners work together. The local assessor’s office can provide assistance if the owners of adMacent properties are unknown. 'o QoW ZoUN oQ VoPHoQH HOVH¶V SUoSHUW\ ZiWhoXW WhHiU SHUPiVVioQ Temporarily mark the recommended distance with flagging or strips of cloth tied to shrubs, trees, or stakes around your home. This will be your defensible space area. 1) Find the percent slope which best describes your property. 2) Find the type of vegetation which best describes the wildland plants growing on or near your property. 3) Locate the number in feet corresponding to your slope and vegetation. This is your recommended defensible space distance. 3OHaVH QoWH WhH iQ WhiV aUWiFOH aUH PadH E\ OoFaO IiUHIiJhWHUV iQ SUoWHFWiQJ hoPHV IUoP ZiOdIiUH 7hH\ aUH QoW QoU do WhH\ WaNH oYHU OoFaO oUdiQaQFHV Wildland grasses (such as cheatgrass), weeds, and widely scattered shrubs with grass understory. Includes shrub dominant areas. Includes forested areas. If substantial grass or shrub understory is present, use those values shown above. DEFENSIBLE SPACE RECOMMENDED DISTANCES—STEEPNESS OF SLOPE STEP TWO: IS THERE ANY DEAD VEGETATION WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA? 'ead vegetation includes dead trees and shrubs, dead branches lying on the ground or still attached to living plants, dried grass, flowers and weeds, dropped leaves and needles, and firewood stacks. In most instances, dead vegetation should be removed from the recommended defensible space area. $ description of the types of dead vegetation you’re likely to encounter and the recommended actions are presented below on the ne[t page. VEGETATION TYPE 30feet 100feet 100feet ---PAGE BREAK--- Remove all standing dead trees from within the defensible space area. Remove all down dead trees within the defensible space area if they have recently fallen and are not yet embedded into the ground. Downed trees that are embedded into soil and which cannot be removed without soil disturbance should be left in place. Remove all exposed branches from an embedded downed dead tree. Remove all dead shrubs from within the defensible space area. Once grasses and wildflowers have dried out or “cured,” cut down and remove from the defensible space area. Reduce thick layers of pine needles to a depth of two inches. Do not remove all needles. Take care not to disturb the “duff” layer (dark area at the ground surface where needles are decomposing) if present. Remove dead leaves, twigs, cones, and branches. Remove all dead leaves, branches, twigs, and needles still attached to living trees and shrubs to height of 15 feet above ground. Remove all debris that accumulates on the roof and in rain gutters on a routine basis (at least once annually). Locate firewood and other combustible debris (wood scraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, etc.) at least 30 feet uphill from the house. DEAD FUEL TYPE STANDING DEAD TREE DOWN DEAD TREE DEAD SHRUBS DRIED GRASSES AND WILDFLOWERS DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES, BRANCHES, CONES (ON THE GROUND) DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES, BRANCHES, AND TWIGS (OTHER THAN ON THE GROUND) FIREWOOD AND OTHER COMBUSTIBLE DEBRIS RECOMMENDED PRACTICE TYPES OF DEAD VEGETATION AND RECOMMENDED PRACTICE STEP THREE: IS THERE A CONTINUOUS DENSE COVER OF SHRUBS OR TREES PRESENT WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA? Note: Separation distances are measured between canopies (outermost branches) and not between trunks. For e[ample, if your home is located on a slope and the brush is four feet tall, the separation distance would be two times the shrub height or eight feet. The recommended separation distance can be accom plished by removing plants or through pruning that reduces the diameter or height of shrubs shorter height means less separation is needed . 5emoval works best for sagebrush. For shrubs which readily resprout, pruning to reduce height may be the best approach. Recommended Separation Distances for Shrubs and Small Conifers For areas with dense brush and small conifer trees, the recommended separation distance is dependant upon shrub height and steepness of slope. 6pecific recommendations are presented below. 6ometimes wildland plants can occur as an uninter rupted layer of vegetation as opposed to being patchy or widely spaced individual plants. The more continuous and dense the vegetation, the greater the wildfire threat. If this situation is present within your defensible space area, you should ³breakitup´ by providing a separation between plants or small groups of plants. Not only are steep slopes often considered high wildfire areas, they are also highly erodable. :hen removing shrubs and trees from steep slopes, keep soil disturbance to a minimum. $lso, it may be necessary to replace flammable vegetation with other plant materials to prevent e[cessive soil erosion. Continuous, dense uninterrupted vegetation or widely spaced individual plants. ---PAGE BREAK--- Note: Separation distances are measured between canopies (outer most branches) and not between trunks. For example, if your house is situated on a 30% slope, the separation of tree canopies within your defensible space should be 20 feet. Creating separation between tree canopies can be accomplished through tree removal. STEP FOUR: ARE THERE LADDER FUELS PRESENT WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA? Vegetation is often present at varying heights, similar to the rungs of a ladder. Under these conditions, flames from fuels burning at ground level, such as a thick layer of pine needles, can be carried to shrubs which can ignite still higher fuels like tree branches. Vegetation that allows a fire to move from lower growing plants to taller ones is referred to as “ladder fuel.” The ladder fuel problem can be corrected by providing a separation between the vegetation layers. Within the defensible space area, a vertical separation of three times the height of the lower fuel layer is recommended. For example, if a shrub growing adjacent to a large pine tree is three feet tall, the recommended separation distance would be nine feet. This could be accomplished by removing the lower tree branches, reducing the height of the shrub, or both. The shrub could also be removed. For forested areas, the recom- mended amount of separation between tree canopies is deter- mined by steepness of slope. The specific recommendations are presented above. Recommended Separation Distances Between Tree Canopies ation ---PAGE BREAK--- THE LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN CHECKLIST o Emphasize the use of low growing herbaceous (non-woody) plants that are kept green during the fire season through irrigation if necessary. Herbaceous plants include lawn, clover, a variety of groundcovers, bedding plants, bulbs, perennial flowers, and conservation grasses. o Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and non-combustible hard surfaces (concrete sidewalks, brick patios, and asphalt driveways). o Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green and free of dead plant material, ladder fuels are removed, and individual plants or groups of plants are arranged so that adjacent wildland vegetation cannot convey a fire through them to the structure. Shorter deciduous shrubs are preferred. o Minimize the use of ornamental coniferous shrubs and trees (such as juniper, arborvitae, and mugo pine) and tall exotic grasses (such as pampas grass). o Where permitted, most wildland shrubs and trees should be removed from this zone and replaced with more desirable alternatives (see first box). Individual specimens or small groups of wildland shrubs and trees can be retained so long as they are kept healthy and free of dead wood, are pruned to reduce the amount of fuel and height, and ladder fuels are removed. o For some areas substantial removal of wildland vegetation may not be allowed. In these instances, wildland vegetation should conform to the recommendations presented in steps 2 through 4. Please become familiar with local requirements before removal of wildland vegetation. o Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney, encroaching on powerlines, or touching the house should be removed. STEP FIVE: IS THERE AN AREA AT LEAST 30 FEET WIDE SURROUNDING YOUR HOUSE THAT IS “LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN”? The area immediately adjacent to your house is particu- larly important in terms of an effective defensible space. It is also the area that is usually landscaped. Within an area extending at least 30 feet from the house, the vegetation should be kept.... • Lean—small amounts of flammable vegetation, • Clean—no accumulation of dead vegetation or other flammable debris, and • Green—plants are healthy and green during the fire season. The “Lean, Clean, and Green Zone Checklist” will help you evaluate the area immediately adjacent to your house. STEP SIX: IS THE VEGETATION WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA MAINTAINED ON A REGULAR BASIS? Keeping your defensible space effective is a continual process. At least annually, review these defensible space steps and take action accordingly. An effective defen- sible space can be quickly diminished through neglect. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ---PAGE BREAK--- Fire-Wise Plant Material for the Pacific Northwest Although there are no fire proof plant materials, the following is a list of some firewise plants that can be used in landscaping for fire prevention. Landscape maintenance is far more important to fire prevention than the selection of plant materials. When planning your landscape, use the characteristics of firewise-plants along with site characteristics such as slope, aspect, hardiness zone and amount of precipitation to choose plant material suitable for your site. TREES common name Conifers; Calocedrus decurrens Incense cedar Thuja plicata Western red cedar Deciduous: Acer spp. Maple Alnus spp. Alder Betula Birch Catalpa speciosa Northern catalpa Celtis occidentalis Hackberry Cornus florida Flowering dogwood Fagus spp. Beech Fraxinus spp. Ash Gleditsia tricanthos Honeylocust Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum Malus spp. Apple Populus spp. Aspen, cottonwood, poplar Prunus spp. Cherry Quercus spp. Oak (white, burr or red) Robinia pseudoacacia Black locust Salix spp. Willow SHRUBS common name Amelanchier spp. Serviceberry Atriplex canescens Four wing saltbrush Berberis spp. Oregon Grape Buddelia davidi Butterfly bush Caryopteris x clandonensis Blue-mist spirea Cornus sericea Red osier dogwood Cotoneaster spp. Cotoneaster Gaultheria shallon Salal Holodiscus discolor Oceanspray Liqustrum spp. Privet Mahonia spp. Creeping grape holly Pachistima canbyi Dwarf mountain lover Philadelphus spp. Mock orange; syringa Rhamnus fragula Buckthorn Rhododendron spp. Azaleas, rhododendrons Rhus spp. Sumac Ribes spp. Currant Sheperdia argentea Silver buffaloberry albus Snowberry Viburnum trilobum Cranberry bush Yucca spp. Yucca FIRESCAPE - FIRE SAFE LANDSCAPE DESIGN Firescaping is a type of landscape design that reduces a home’s vulnerability to wildfire. The goal is to develop and design a landscape with plants that offer fire protection and enhance the property. The idea is to surround the home with things that are less likely to burn. Proper plant selection, placement and maintenance can diminish the possibility of ignition, lower fire intensity, and reduce how Tuickly a fire spreads. Zone 1: Moist and Trim Choose ³firewise´ plants. Lowgrowing, firewise plants resist catching fire and provide little fuel. Lawns, groundcovers, perennials and annuals form a greenbelt that is regularly watered and maintained to eliminate dry plant litter. 5ock mulches, patios, masonry or rock planters are e[cellent fuel breaks. %e creative with boulders, riprap, and dry streambeds. This zone may contain occasional individual shrubs and trees located at least feet from the house. The traditional foundation planting of Munipers is not a viable solution in a firescape design. %ecause Munipers, other conifers and broadleaf evergreens contain oils, resins and wa[es that make these plants burn with great intensity, use of these plants should be minimized within feet of structure. $ firescape landscape lets plants and garden elements reveal their innate beauty by leaving space between plants and groups of plants. Characteristics of Firewise Plants Little seasonal accumulation of dead vegetation Open, loose branching habit Nonresinous woody material, avoid Munipers and other conifers Low volume of total vegetation +igh moisture content in leaves 6low growth reTuires less freTuent pruning Zone 2: Low and Sparse 6low growing, drought tolerant shrubs and groundcovers keep fire near ground level. Native vegetation can be retained here if it is low growing and does accumulate dry, flammable material. The transition between zones creates breaks in the path to slow advancing flames. PERENNIALS common name Achillea spp. Yarrow Allium schoenoprasum Chives Bergenia spp. Bergenia Brodiaea spp. Lillies Coreopsis spp. Coreopsis Erysimum linifolium Wall flower spp. California poppy Fragaria spp. Wild strawberries Geranium spp. Geranium Hemerocallis hybrids Daylillies Heuchera spp. Coral bells Hosta spp. Hosta Iris spp. Iris Kniphofia uvaria Red hot poker Lupinus spp. Lupine Oenotheria spp. Evening primrose Penstemon spp. Beard tongue Solidago spp. Goldenrod Strachys byzantina Lamb’s ear Lawn can be an effective landscape feature in Firescaping. Photo courtesy of Ben Hammock Zone 3: High and Clean Fire intensity is reduced where it can burn less fuel. Native trees are thinned and dry debris on the ground is removed. Prune tree branches to or more above ground to reduce the possibility of surface fires spread ing into tree crowns. This zone reTuires removing overgrowth and maMor pruning every three to five years. 6pecimen trees can be planted at the edge of this zone if pruned properly. Regular Maintenance ([perience and research has shown that a distance of feet around your home needs this compre hensive landscaping. *reater distances are necessary on steep slopes or windswept e[posures. Most plants accumulate e[cess woody material and all shed seasonal foliage. %ranches spread, often touching other vegetation. :eeds grow between landscape plants.