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Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-1 V. DESIGN REVIEW GUIDELINES A. A. A. A. A. Pur Pur Pur Pur Purpose pose pose pose pose In reviewing applications for Certificates of Appropriateness, the Historic Preservation Commission will refer to the design review standards and guidelines which follow. These standards and guidelines are written to assist the property owner in designing and making decisions about compatible improvements to properties in historic districts and to locally designated historic properties. The standards and guidelines are intended to educate the public about the philosophy of historic preservation. They also provide criteria by which the Historic Preservation Commission may evaluate the appropriateness of such improvements. The Commission will always assess a project according to its adherence to the guidelines and will make all efforts to be consistent in its rulings. The guidelines are not laws written in absolute terms, but rather are general rules that will hold in most cases. The Commission has the authority to examine “the whole situation,” or extenuating circumstances (such as safety considerations), and approve projects that do not meet the absolute letter of the guidelines. When the Commission does grant exceptions to the guidelines, it will clearly document why it has done so. In considering applications for Certificates of Appropriateness, the more historically or architecturally significant the structure, the more concerned the Commission will be that the exterior appearance of the structure retain its exact historic integrity and character. Also the more visible the project will be from a public right-of-way, the greater will be the Commission’s concern. The Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation, which follow, have been developed as general guidelines for preservation of older buildings. These standards are also used relative to income producing properties to determine if a rehabilitation project qualifies for “certified rehabilitation,” thus becoming eligible for federal and state income tax credit. The Burlington Design Review Guidelines are based on and used in conjunction with these general standards: 1. A property shall be used for its historic purpose or be placed in a new use that requires minimal change to the defining characteristics of the building and its site and environment. 2. The historic character of a property shall be retained and preserved. The removal of historic materials or alteration of features and spaces that characterize a property shall be avoided. 3. Each property shall be recognized as a physical record of its time, place, and use. Changes that create a false sense of historical development, such as adding conjectural features or architectural elements from other buildings, shall not be undertaken. 4. Most properties change over time; those changes that have acquired historic significance in their own right shall be retained and preserved. 5. Distinctive features, finishes, and construction techniques or examples of craftsmanship that characterize a property shall be preserved. 6. Deteriorated historic features shall be repaired rather than replaced. Where the severity of deterioration requires replacement of a distinctive feature, the new feature shall match the old in design, color, texture, and other visual qualities and, where possible, materials. Replacement of missing features shall be substantiated by documentary, physical, or pictorial evidence. 7. Chemical or physical treatments, such as sandblasting, that cause damage to historic materials shall not be used. The surface cleaning of structures, if appropriate, shall be undertaken using the gentlest means possible. 8. Significant archaeological resources affected by a project shall be protected and preserved. If such resources must be disturbed, mitigation measures shall be undertaken. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-2 1 Amended 4/11/95 9. New additions, exterior alterations, or related new construction shall not destroy historic materials that characterize the property. The new work shall be differentiated from the old and shall be compatible with the massing, size, scale, and architectural features to protect the historic integrity of the property and its environment. 10. New additions and adjacent or related new construction shall be undertaken in such a manner that if removed in the future, the essential form and integrity of the historic property and its environment would be unimpaired. B. Landscape Features In the original development of the historic district neighborhoods, landscaping was designed to link buildings with their surroundings and to create soft edges where public and private property meet. Man-made elements of the landscape, including fences of wood or wrought iron, retaining walls, lighting, curbing, sidewalks, street furniture, gazebos, arbors, and trellises should be protected during construction work and should be preserved where possible. B-1. Public Right-of-Way The City of Burlington is responsible for the maintenance of the public property in historic districts. This property includes the median strips, public parks, sidewalks, streets, and the area between the sidewalk and the street. Although the public areas have evolved over time, much of their historic character remains. Proposed changes should respect this character. Refer to pages II-2 – II-6 for the approvals required for a Certificate of Appropriateness for changes to the public right-of-way. A City of Burlington tree permit may be required for tree work in the public right of way. This permit must be obtained prior to issuing a Certificate of Appropriateness. Please contact the Planning Department at 222-5110 to inquire about the need for a tree permit.1 Guidelines B1-1. New benches, trash receptacles, fountains, and other street furniture should be compatible with the historic character of the neighborhood in size, scale, material, and color. Existing landscape features such as parks, trees, columns, walkways, curbs, and fountains should be retained and maintained. Benches should be designed to enhance and blend with the surroundings. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-3 B1-2. Large trash receptacles (dumpsters) should be located out of the public view at the rear or along an inconspicuous side of a building, or screened by walls or evergreen vegetation. B1-3. The existing topographical character of the neighborhood should be maintained. B1-4. If feasible, historic street patterns, street widths and street cross-section profiles1 should be maintained. Sidewalks are encouraged. Replacement of granite curbs with concrete is not allowed. B1-5. Care should be taken to avoid disrupting historic curb and sidewalk materials. Connections with historic curb and sidewalk materials should be made as cleanly and compatibly as possible. B1-6. Tree trimming should be done in a manner to encourage preservation of the district tree canopy. The practice of tree topping and rounding off is prohibited. Topping is defined as the severe cutting back of limbs to stubs larger than three inches in diameter within the tree’s crown to such a degree as to remove more than 1/3 of the canopy which would disfigure the tree.2 B1-7. The grass strips between sidewalk and street should be maintained and should not be surfaced with gravel, concrete, or any other similar material. B1-8. The neighborhood canopy should be reinforced by street and front yard trees. Appropriate trees should be planted to avoid damage to sidewalks, curbs, and retaining walls. New trees and plantings should replace older vegetation and should be properly maintained. All stumps of street trees shall be removed below the surface of the ground so that the top of the stump shall not project above the surface of the ground, and the surface shall be restored to its original condition as is reasonably practical.3 B1-9. Street trees should be located in a uniform line and spacing pattern throughout the block and located so that they will not interfere with utility lines. For a list of appropriate street trees endorsed by the Burlington Tree Advisory Board, please see Appendix 1.4 B1-10. Street lighting fixtures should be of a human scale and should maintain continuity of style in relation to the neighborhood. B1-11. Electrical, telephone, and television cables should not be attached to the principal elevations of a historic building. Whenever possible, utility wires should be placed underground. No poles or related equipment should be added to the public right-of-way unless there is no other way of meeting established safety and code standards. B1-12. Signage in the public right-of-way, except for that required for traffic and safety, should be kept to a minimum and should not interfere with the historic character of the neighborhood. B1-13. Playground equipment in public areas should be compatible in scale and materials with the character of the neighborhood. B1-14. Historic bridges should be rehabilitated if feasible. New bridge designs should be compatible with the character of the neighborhood. B1-15. Landscaping should be used to emphasize the entrances to the historic district. 1 Amended 2/8/00 2 Amended 4/11/95 3 Amended 4/11/95 4 Amended 4/11/95 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-4 1 Amended 4/11/95 2 Amended 2/8/00 3 Amended 2/8/00 B1-16. In accordance with the City of Burlington Tree Ordinance, destruction or mutilation of any tree, plant or shrub on public property or in the public right-of-way is prohibited. Attaching or placing any rope, wire (other than to support a young or broken tree), sign, poster, advertisement, or notice on any tree growing in a public place or to allow any gaseous, liquid or solid substance which is harmful to such tree to come in contact with their roots, trunks or leaves is prohibited.1 2. Landscaping and Trees Mature trees, shrubs and ground covers help to define and enhance the character of a historic district. During the 19th century, many varieties of oriental flowers and shrubs were imported to the United States and flourished here. Today, they are common to the area and are usually found in loose, informal arrangements which were preferred by Victorian era gardeners. Turn of the century gardens advocated a natural look - comfortable, settled and peaceful rather than the stylized garden typical of the 18th century. Historic districts are typically shaded by a heavy deciduous tree canopy which adds great aesthetic appeal. At the turn of the century, trees were placed in a manner to have an impact in cooling the structure. Many streets, such as Fountain Place, were lined with trees to make pedestrian travel more pleasant in the summer. Guidelines B2-1. The existing grade on the site should be maintained whenever possible. B2-2. Site grading should not adversely affect drainage or soil stability on adjoining properties. B2-3. Site and roof drainage should assure that water does not splash against building or foundation walls nor drain toward the building. B2-4. Mature, healthy trees should remain intact and undisturbed on a site, unless they are causing the structural deterioration of a building. A mature tree is defined as being four inches or larger in diameter in West Burlington and as being fifteen (15) inches or larger in diameter in Glencoe measured four feet 2 above the ground. B2-5. New construction should be sited to minimize its impact on existing mature trees and their root systems, both on and adjacent to the construction site. Protective measures should be taken to preserve trees and their root systems from the effects of grading, piling of dirt or parking of construction vehicles. Trees can be protected by the use of construction fences placed as far away from the tree trunk as possible. B2-6. Diseased trees should be examined by the County Agriculture Extension Agent or the City Cemetery and Grounds Superintendent to determine if removal or treatment is required. B2-7. Trees larger than four inches in diameter in West Burlington or larger than fifteen (15) inches in diameter in Glencoe3 which are dead or diseased should be replaced with a similar type tree, except where the replacement would cause structural damage to the building. B2-8. When a tree is removed, the tree stump should be ground and the soil should be leveled and seeded. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-5 B2-9. Tree topping is discouraged. Topping will leave the tree vulnerable to insect infestation and decay fungi. It will also disfigure the tree so that it loses its former character. Some tree species not tolerant of topping can be killed by this procedure. B2-10. When tree trimming is necessary, it should be done in a manner to encourage the maintenance of the neighborhood tree canopy. B2-11. New plant materials should be appropriate in species and scale to existing plant materials in the neighborhood. B2-12. Plantings on corner lots should not obstruct vision at intersections. B2-13. Plantings should not interfere with utility lines, sidewalks, or pedestrian traffic. B2-14. Landscape timbers should not be used to create raised planting beds. INAPPROPRIATE B2-15. Landscape designs which are not in keeping with the early 20th century character of the historic districts are not allowed where visible from the street. For example, a desert scene featuring cacti would be inappropriate. The use of grass, ivy, or other low green covers is strongly encouraged, instead of large mulched areas. Gravel should not be used as a ground cover. B2-16. Repair of existing walls, entrances, or other landscaping structures should duplicate the original in materials and structure. For example, the mortar joints on the stonework at the Fountain Place entrance should match the existing the mortar color. Attention to details of this type should make repair work indistinguishable from any original elements. Retain planting strips between sidewalk and street. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-6 3. Appurtenant Features Appurtenant features, those structures which define or surround the site of a building, should be given the same consideration as given the building itself. These features, including walkways, driveways, fences, signs, and lighting, help to create an orderly visual quality. Careful attention to appurtenant features can add a finishing touch to a renovation project. Neglecting these features can detract from a significant building and can cause an entire streetscape to look shabby. Guidelines B3-1. Original site features such as walkways, walls, formal and informal gardens, fountains, gazebos, and trellises should be retained. B3-2. Landscape accessories, such as benches, lights and signs should be compatible in scale, color and material with the character of the neighborhood. B3-3. If changes are made to the building site, they should be carefully evaluated in light of the past appearance of the site. Avoid giving the site an appearance it never had. B3-4. The removal of abandoned underground oil tanks is encouraged as an environmental protection. However, the root systems of nearby trees should be protected from vehicles and piling of dirt during the removal. B3-5. The original orientation of the existing structures should be retained. 4. Walks, Steps and Driveways Walkways and steps constructed of cement, stone, or brick are important features of the historic district and provide visual unity. They should be maintained whenever possible. Most historic district houses feature wide straight front walks leading directly from the public sidewalk to the front door of the structure. New walks and steps should be compatible to existing walks in pattern, design and materials. Because automobiles were once smaller than they are today, driveways in the historic districts are often narrow. The first paved driveways consisted of two concrete parallel runners with grass in between. Although most have been paved over, parallel runners can still be an attractive driveway treatment. New driveways and curb cuts should maintain the existing character of the neighborhood. Guidelines B4-1. Appropriate paving materials for walks are concrete and brick. Stone walks are also appropriate in West Burlington, while gravel walks are also appropriate in Glencoe.1 Simulations of natural materials are not allowed. B4-2. Serpentine or curved walks in the public view are not permitted except where it was done originally. B4-3. Consideration should be given to the ratio between green areas and man-made or paved areas. Large expanses of paving are discouraged. 1 Amended 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-7 B4-4. Front walks which lead directly from the public sidewalk to the front door should be maintained, except where originally oriented in another direction. Additional walks needed for access should be appropriate in placement, scale, and materials. B4-5. Handrails on steps along a walk should be compatible in materials and style of neighborhood structures. B4-6. New walks or driveways should be constructed to avoid the damaging or killing of a mature healthy tree or other major landscape elements. B4-7. Walks should be flush with the grade of the front yard and with the public sidewalk. However, concrete or brick steps should be provided where the building lot is elevated above the level of the street. B4-8. Appropriate materials for driveways in the West Burlington Historic District are concrete, asphalt, brick or gravel; and for driveways in the Glencoe Historic District are concrete and gravel.1 New concrete driveways should be tinted so that they will match the shade of the public sidewalk. B4-9. Curb cuts required for driveways should be kept to the smallest openings that are functional. B4-10. New driveways should be added only to provide access to parking areas at the rear of the lot. If a new driveway is planned next to an existing driveway on an adjacent lot, a planting strip should be left to avoid a wide expanse of pavement. B4-11. New driveways should minimize changes to existing landscape features such as retaining walls, walkways and major landscaping. B4-12. Circular driveways in front yards are inappropriate unless the drive can be documented for the specific structure and falls within City Code. 5. Terraces and Patios A terrace is defined as a raised, level, paved, or planted area next to a building. A patio is defined as a structure that is located on grade at the rear of a property. Guidelines B5-1. The location of a terrace or patio should complement the character of the site and the historic structure. Concrete or brick steps are provided where the building lot is elevated above the level of the street. 1 Amended 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-8 B5-2. A terrace or patio should be designed so that it can be built or removed without damage to the historic structure or adjoining properties. B5-3. Appropriate paving materials are stone, brick or tile. The choice of materials should compliment the adjoining historic structure. B5-4. Historic landscape features such as major trees should be retained and protected when a terrace or patio is constructed. B5-5. The removal of historic building materials to allow for the construction of a terrace or patio is not allowed in most cases. 6. Swimming Pools Swimming pools are modern amenities which should be screened to reduce the intrusive effect on the character of the neighborhood. City Code must be followed when a swimming pool is constructed. Guidelines B6-1. Pools should be located only in the rear yard. On corner lots, pools should be located in the portion of the rear yard farthest from the street. B6-2. Fencing should follow the guidelines found on pages V-14 - V-16 and should screen the pool from the public right-of-way. According to City Code, a fence surrounding a swimming pool must be a minimum of 48 inches tall, and all gates or doors must be equipped with self-closing and latching features. Vegetation can be used to soften the visual impact of the fence. B6-3. Above ground pools are not allowed. B6-4. A pool should be designed so that it can be built and removed without damage or alteration to the historic structure. B6-5. Important landscape features such as major trees should be retained and protected when a pool is constructed. B6-6. The removal of historic building materials to allow for the construction of a pool is not allowed in most cases. 7. Accessory Structures The private garage, evolving from the carriage house and horse barn outbuildings of the 19th century, were modified in the early 1900s to store an automobile. The earliest garages were simple frame structures with no floor, which could accommodate a single automobile. Several of these early garages remain on Front Street. Gradually, garages such as those seen on West Davis Street and Fountain Place became more substantial structures and sometimes provided living quarters for servants. The design often matched the architecture of the house. One of the most important features of garage design is the garage door. The door expresses the function of the structure and defines its age and style. Early garage doors were made of wood. They usually had glass panels and they were no more than one bay wide. On multi-car garages, identical doors were placed side by side. Door types included hinged, roll-up, sliding, and folding accordion doors, or a combination. The typical doors were paneled, regardless of the opening device. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-9 In constructing a new garage, the distinctive features of the main structure, such as roofline and siding, should be compatible. The use of salvage materials, such as old windows and doors, forge a link between a new garage and the existing historic structures. Painting the garage the same color as the main house can blend the two buildings. Examples of original garage structures found in the Historic Districts Guidelines B7-1. Original outbuildings (storage buildings, garages, carports, greenhouses, gazebos, sheds, detached kitchens, wellhouses and outhouses)1 should be preserved and treated as historic structures. B7-2. New garages and outbuildings should be sited to the rear of the main building with setbacks, height, and massing compatible with other garages and outbuildings on the street. If the setback does not conform to City Code specifications, a variance must be obtained from the Board of Adjustment. B7-3. If a significant garage should be lost, any new construction should be built upon the same basic footprint. The lost structure should be replicated if possible upon the original foundation. If the original foundation is within the required setback as stated in City Codes, a variance to rebuild the garage at that location must be obtained from the Board of Adjustment. B7-4. Each new garage should be compatible in design with the main building on the property, in terms of roofline, form, materials, color, and fenestration. 1 Amended 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-10 Prefabricated storage buildings are considered incompatible with the character of the Historic Districts. B7-5. Garages and outbuildings should be free-standing structures. No attached garages or outbuildings are allowed. B7-6. Prefabricated wood storage buildings are permitted if they are not visible from the street and are camouflaged in some manner. B7-7. Metal utility sheds, metal carports and metal garages are not allowed. B7-8. If an original garage door is removed, it should be stored for future use. B7-9. Artificial siding for garages is discouraged. 8. Parking Areas Necessitated by the use of the automobile, parking areas can have a significant impact on the character of a historic district. If designed appropriately through the use of screening, trees and fencing, parking lots can be successfully integrated into a sensitive historic environment with minimal impact. Parking areas should protect neighboring properties from light, glare, noise, and fumes. Guidelines B8-1. Parking lots must conform to City code regulations. B8-2. Parking areas should be located to the rear of lots. B8-3. Parking areas which are visible from the street or neighboring properties should be screened by landscaping or fencing. B8-4. Parking lots should be paved with suitable materials such as asphalt, concrete, brick, crushed stone, or gravel. Loose paving materials should be contained by an appropriate method. B8-5. Large expanses of paving should be avoided. New interior planting areas should be created to minimize the impact of the area on surrounding properties. As a general guide, a parking lot with more than six parking stalls should have a minimum of 10% of the interior area landscaped. B8-6. New parking areas should be designed to minimize their impact on the environment. Existing mature trees should be saved if possible and new trees should be planted in order to maintain and enhance the tree canopy. B8-7. Parking in front yards is not allowed. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-11 B8-8. Site grading should not adversely affect the topology of the neighborhood. Site grading should not increase the run-off water onto adjoining properties. Existing grades at property lines should be retained. B8-9. Circulation and parking areas within lots should be clearly, yet unobtrusively defined. Parking lots should be maintained on regular basis. INAPPROPRIATE APPROPRIATE 9. Lighting Burlington’s first generally available electricity was provided in 1902. Documentary photographs of early 20th century residences rarely exhibit porch lighting; if present, the lights appear as small pendants or projecting iron fixtures of a torch-like design placed near the entrances. If the original fixtures exist on a historic structure, they should be treated as valuable antiques. If fixtures must be replaced, options include antique fixtures of like design and scale, reproduction fixtures that reflect the design of the building, or contemporary fixtures which compliment the style of the building. There are many lines of period fixtures now available, and fixtures should be appropriate for the architectural style of the house. Guidelines B9-1. Lighting fixtures and poles should be compatible in scale and materials with the structure, landscape and neighborhood setting. B9-2. Poles for site lighting should be located to the rear of a property whenever feasible. B9-3. The area illuminated by a lighting fixture should be limited so that adjacent properties are not adversely affected. B9-4. Low level lighting should be used at the public/private edge for pedestrian safety. B9-5. Service lines to site lighting should be underground whenever feasible. B9-6. Light fixtures should be used to illuminate entrances rather than building facades. B9-7. Fixtures should be used which do not call attention to themselves. Non-decorative fixtures should be hidden. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-12 The use of period lighting is pre- ferred over the use of contemporary metal street lights. B9-8. Ground level lights closely spaced along a walk are usually intrusive to the streetscape and should be avoided. B9-9 Street lighting should reflect the period of the district. Contemporary metal street lights should be avoided if possible.1 APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE 10. Signs Signs are an important visual element in historic districts and at designated historic properties. Structures at the turn of the century were built when walking was the predominant form of travel. Pedestrian-scaled signs that will not overwhelm the architecture and obscure elements, such as cornices and transoms, are recommended. Billboards, portable signs, internally illuminated signs, flashing signs, and lighted message and display signs are examples of inappropriate signage. Signs should be no larger than necessary to identify the building they serve. A good location is next to the front walk a few feet from the public sidewalk. Signs may be designed to echo the architecture of the building, but highly stylized signs should be avoided. Signs should not try to look earlier than their buildings. For example, “Williamsburg” signs are too early for Burlington’s buildings. Smooth surface signs are preferred over the rough texture of carved signs. Signs and sign posts should always be painted. Signs may be lighted with hidden ground-level spotlights. Advertising signs should not be placed flush on the facade of a building in a residential district unless this was done originally. Signs should never be placed on a roof porch or attached in any manner that interferes with architectural details. If a building has a transom over the main entrance, street address numbers can be painted on the glass in that area. Historic commercial buildings usually have a sign frieze intended for a sign. Window signs are also appropriate for commercial buildings. Fabric awnings can provide a space for a sign or street numbers. The sign lettering should combine easy readability with good visibility. There should be a significantly higher ratio of background to copy. There should be a contrast in letters to the background. Usually the best location for a sign is next to the front walk near the public sidewalk. 1 Amended 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-13 Characteristics which make this an appropriate sign include its rectan- gular shape, smooth surface sign board, and lettering which evokes the mood of the neighborhood. Free standing signs of limited size are recom- mended. If signs must be placed on build- ings, a small panel at the entrance is recom- mended. The top of a porch roof is not an appro- priate location for a sign. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE Guidelines B10-1. Appropriate materials for signs are wood, metal, concrete, and masonry. B10-2. Signs should not be attached to buildings in ways that interfere with or destroy important architectural features. B10-3. Portable signs, unless temporary, are not allowed. B10-4. Billboards are not allowed. B10-5. Plastic signs, internally illuminated signs and flashing signs are not allowed. B10-6. Residential identification signs attached to a wall should not exceed one square foot in surface area. Such signs should be flush mounted on the main building in a manner not to obscure architectural features. B10-7. Window signs (excluding street numbers) are allowed only on commercial properties. Window signs should not exceed 20% of the window area. Inappropriate sign: Much larger than necessary and not in keeping with the pedestrian environment. Good example of window signage. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-14 B10-8. Signs for historic commercial buildings should be placed in locations originally intended for signs such as the frieze of a cornice on the top of a storefront. B10-9. All signs should conform to the existing city sign ordinance. 11. Fences and Walls According to documentary photographs, front yard fences were not extensively used in Burlington’s historic districts in the early part of the century. Brick or stone retaining walls 18 to 36 inches high were used in many cases to maintain the integrity of the street plans. Older Burlington neighborhoods had open vistas with a natural setting. If fencing in the front yard is necessary, the use of appropriate materials at an appropriate height may result in a fence which contributes to the character of the streetscape. Traditional front yard fences were made of wood or iron. Painted wooden picket fences with quaint gates were seen at the turn of the century. The pickets were generally about 36 inches high with posts about six inches taller. Fences were often used in back yards to delineate property lines, to confine animals, or to protect planted areas. Solid fences with vertical uprights are acceptable for rear yard use, along with woven wire and simple picket fences. Chain link fences in rear yards should not be seen from the street. APPROPRIATE Cast Iron Fence Wood Picket Fence Wood Fence Brick Retaining Wall Stone Retaining Wall Stone Fence ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-15 Railroad ties and land- scape timbers are inap- propriate materials for retaining walls. Guidelines B11-1. Fences in front yards are discouraged. Retaining walls constructed of stone or brick should be retained and encouraged. B11-2. Landscape timbers and railroad tie retaining walls that are visible from the street are not allowed. B11-3. Retaining walls should be designed to reflect patterns and styles of existing walls in the district. B11-4. Retaining walls should not be constructed of cinderblock or cement block unless it is stuccoed or veneered with brick. Walls constructed of artificial siding that seek to resemble brick veneer, stone veneer, or wood veneer are not allowed. Walls should not feature plastic panels, corrugated metal or any similar material. B11-5. Fences in the front or front side yards should be constructed of wood picket, brick, stone, or cast iron. They should not be over three feet high. Pickets should be stained or painted. B11-6. Solid fences which block the view of the property are not allowed in front yards. Split rail, basket weave, and horizontal board fences are inappropriate styles and must not be used. B11-7. Materials and styles of fences should coordinate with appropriate nearby buildings and fences. Wood fence designs should be in keeping with the character of the house. B11-8. Chain link fences should not be located in front yards or elsewhere where they could be easily viewed by the public. They are inappropriate to the historic character of the district and are intrusive features to the landscape. B11-9. Existing chain link fences should be camouflaged with vegetation such as ivy, climbing roses, wisteria, evergreens, shrubs, etc. Split-rail is an example of inap- propriate fencing for the Historic Districts. Fences and hedges that screen the view of the property from the street are inappropriate. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-16 B11-10. Vertical privacy fences are acceptable in side and rear yards. They should not be over seven feet high. The structural member of any fence should be turned to face the property of the person erecting the fence. B11-11. Privacy or security fences along a side yard must not extend beyond the midpoint of a building. Those along the side street must not be over four feet high, according to City zoning code. B11-12. Fences may be used to screen parking areas or mechanical systems. These screens should not be over four feet high. B11-13. Enclosures for outdoor garbage areas are encouraged. Outdoor garbage and dumpster containers should not be visible from the street, but should be shielded from view by fencing or evergreen vegetation. C. Building Exterior 1. Architectural Components and Details Architectural components, such as fascias, soffits, trim, columns, brackets, porch railings, door/window casings, and architectural details, such as joinery and surface patterns, contribute significantly to the historic character of a structure. Many of these components are no longer available or are very expensive to reproduce. Those that are characteristic of a particular building should be regarded as valuable antiques and treated as such. If a property owner is restoring the exterior of a building and is seeking to replace missing architectural details, it may be possible to find some of them in salvage yards or in antique shops. Many mail order companies, whose catalogs are available in the Planning Department, stock a wide variety of acceptable simulations of period architectural components. Before undertaking the replacement of details, it is wise to be completely familiar with the style and characteristics of the building so that the introduction of inappropriate details can be avoided. Guidelines C1-1. Original architectural details should be retained if structurally feasible. Original exterior features such as cornices, brackets, railings, shutters, siding, window architrave’s, and doorway pediments are an essential part of a building’s character and should not be removed. C1-2. Deteriorated architectural features should be repaired or restored rather than replaced. If replacement is necessary, the new material should match the material being replaced in composition, design, color, texture, or other visual qualities. C1-3. Architectural components and details that are not appropriate to the historic character of the structure should not be added. The owner should never try to make a building look older than it is by using details belonging to a previous period. C1-4. Architectural components, such as fascias, soffits and columns, should not be replaced or covered by materials such as plywood, vinyl, and aluminum that would not have been used nor been available in the original construction. Dumpsters should be screened from public view. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-17 C1-5. Sandblasting and other abrasive treatments that can damage historic architectural components and details are not acceptable. 2. Foundations For most houses the foundation is composed of a masonry perimeter wall which bears most of the load, interior piers for supplementary support, and a sill plate which connects the perimeter wall with the wood frame of the house. On some older houses in the historic district, the foundation was originally constructed entirely of brick piers. At some point in time, brick walls were added between the piers. Most houses will eventually settle by as much as an inch, and cracking along mortar joints can be expected. More serious cracks occur when one side of a building settles more than the other due to a difference in ground quality. Some conditions require the consultation of a masonry contractor or a civil engineer. These conditions include large cracks that go through the bricks, bulging or sagging walls, bricks not level from one corner to the next, and sagging interior floors and walls. Maintenance of the foundation includes periodic repointing of mortar joints. Severe problems can require replacement of entire sections of a foundation. Parging is the technique of applying a cement-like coating as an alternative to the repair or rebuilding of a deteriorated foundation. Parging is not recommended because it permanently obscures the original brickwork, and these coats tend to fail eventually because they restrict the normal passage of moisture through the wall. Guidelines C2-1. When a foundation must be repaired or rebuilt, the original bricks or stones should be used or replaced by bricks or stones that are similar in size, color, and surface texture to the original. For recycled bricks, the weathered side should be put on the outside, or the whole purpose of using recycled bricks is defeated. C2-2. In rebuilding a foundation, the existing bond patterns and mortar joints should be duplicated. C2-3. Repointing should match the design and color of the original mortar joints. C2-4. Exposed concrete block and framed concrete is not allowed as an exposed foundation material. C2-5. Openings between brick piers may be filled in with matching masonry materials or lattice. The infill should be recessed. C2-6. Bandboards, brick header rows and other visible horizontal design elements should match and align with the existing elements. C2-7. Painting and waterproofing the exposed parts of foundations is not allowed. Non-porous coatings trap moisture which, upon freezing, accelerates deterioration and sometimes causes interior damage. C2-8. Sandblasting is not allowed. C2-9. Parging is not recommended. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-18 Avoid filling joints too full or smearing mortar on face of bricks. C2-10. Venting of a foundation is necessary. Vents should be painted a color which blends with the existing foundation color. C2-11. Trees should not be planted near a foundation because the roots hold moisture and can crack foundations. C2-12. Access doors to the foundation area should be located in an area not visible from the street. 3. Masonry Brick or stone masonry is an important component of most old houses, and a source of permanent beauty. Original or early masonry materials, which have a weathered, time-worn appearance, should be preserved wherever possible. Cleaning masonry is recommended only when determined that the dirt is actually accumulated deposits and not simply the effects of weathering. (See guidelines C3-8 and C3-9) Repointing, which means removing old mortar and replacing it with new mortar, is necessary when there is evidence of moisture problems or when sufficient mortar is missing. It is a process that should be taken with the utmost care to avoid smearing mortar on the surface of the brick. (See guidelines C3-2 and C3-3) Guidelines C3-1. Historic masonry should be repaired rather than replaced or covered. C3-2. Repointing a masonry wall should be done with products that duplicate the existing mortar materials in appearance, texture, and color. Colored sands or mineral pigmented mortar can be used to match the existing mortar. Joints filled too full Joints recessed ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-19 C3-3. Mortar with a high content of portland cement should be avoided, as this will often create a mortar that is stronger than the existing masonry. The resulting stress on the existing masonry will cause it to crumble. C3-4. The use of waterproof or water repellent coatings should be avoided except to solve a specific identified problem; i.e., sandblasted brick may be so porous that some type of coating is essential. Coatings are frequently unnecessary, expensive, and can accelerate deterioration of the masonry. C3-5. When matching existing brick with new brick, care must be taken to match the color, texture, and size of the bricks, the width of joints between bricks, the color and tone of mortar, and the type of joint with the original. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE C3-6. Stucco or similar masonry coatings must not be applied to masonry unless these coatings were originally used on the building. C3-7. Stucco should be repaired with a stucco mixture duplicating the original as closely as possible in appearance and texture. C3-8. Masonry should be cleaned with the gentlest method possible, such as low pressure water and soft natural brushes. Chemical cleaning is acceptable, if a spot test indicates that the chemicals will not have an adverse effect on the masonry. The chemicals should be a type which will not harm vegetation and which can be thoroughly removed with clean water and soft bristle brushes. C3-9. Abrasive stripping methods such as sandblasting or water under high pressure remove the hard outer skin of old brick and damage the mortar joint. Sandblasted brick becomes much more water absorbent and susceptible to deterioration because of freezing and expansion. C3-10. Masonry should not be painted unless evidence suggests that it was originally painted. C3-11. All masonry architectural features (cornices, moldings, etc.) should be retained since they contribute to the character of the structure. C3-12. The original or early color and texture of masonry surfaces should be retained. Brick or stone surfaces may have been painted or whitewashed for practical or aesthetic reasons. Indiscriminate removal of paint from masonry surfaces may subject the building to harmful damage and may give it an appearance it never had. 4. Chimneys Original chimneys are significant features of historic houses and should be preserved. On a Victorian house, the chimney might be very tall with extensive corbelling at the top. Stone chimneys are found on many Craftsman style houses. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-20 Deteriorated chimneys should never be shortened nor the brickwork parged. Loose bricks should be re-laid and the chimney repointed. Chimneys which have not been used for some time should be inspected before they are reused. Many are unsafe due to deterioration or the need for flue liners. Chimney caps have become an integral element to the external features of a historic structure and have taken on a variety of shapes and forms. Queen Anne and Tudor Revival style homes typically utilized terra cotta chimney cap designs. Colonial Revival homes have utilized corbelling or extended flues with a stone or concrete cap. Most recently, formed sheet metal or cast iron has been used. Guidelines C4-1. The design of original chimney masonry should be preserved. Brick corbelling, clay chimney pots, or other original features should be repaired rather than removed. C4-2. Original chimneys visible from the public right-of-way should be repaired or rebuilt rather than removed or shortened when they become deteriorated. C4-3. Special care should be taken to ensure that repairs blend in color, composition, and texture. C4-4. Parging (covering with cement) is not an acceptable alternative to repointing deteriorated chimney masonry. C4-5. Chimneys or furnace stacks added after the original construction may be removed if the appearance of the structure will otherwise remain unchanged. C4-6. Metal caps are acceptable if they are unobtrusive and do not alter the design of the chimney. The design of the chimney cap should be chosen in context to the architecture of the house and the materials of the chimney. Appropriate Chimney Caps Chimney with brick corbelling at the top ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-21 C4-7. Wooden boxed chimneys are inappropriate in the historic district. C4-8. Metal vent pipes that protrude through the top of a chimney are not acceptable. C4-9. Unpainted masonry should not be painted. C4-10. Chimneys made of materials that simulate brick or stone are not acceptable. C4-11. Metal flashing around chimneys should be checked regularly to make sure water is not damaging the brick or the roof. 5. Roofs The roof form and pitch are among the major distinguishing characteristics of the different styles of architecture. Every effort should be made to preserve and maintain them. Changes to roofs, such as raising or lowering the pitch, removing or altering the appearance of dormers, turrets, and balustrades, are prohibited. Specialty roofing materials such as slate and tile are becoming increasingly rare. These materials should be preserved whenever possible. Deteriorated soffits, fascia, moldings, and brackets should be repaired or duplicated. Tongue-and-groove soffit lumber should not be replaced with plywood. Adding features, such as dormers and gables, is permitted only when it can be shown that they are appropriate for the house style. Prefabricated dormers rarely have the necessary detailing. Skylights, solar panels, power ventilators, and other such equipment should be restricted to the rear slopes and be hidden from the street. Skylights, roof ventilators, and satellite dishes are allowed if placed to the rear of the structure and not visible from the street. The care and maintenance of the roof is one of the most important practices in preserving a historic building. A leaky roof can accelerate deterioration of plaster and window parts at a rapid rate. A roof should be inspected twice a year for worn edges and ridges, bubbling of the shingles, nails popping up, and moss forming on the surface. Mineral granules collecting in gutters or at the base of downspouts is an indication that shingles should be replaced. Patching leaks with roofing cement is not recommended because the patches look bad and fail quickly. Roofing materials on historic buildings were usually dark in color. White or very light colored roofs lose some of their visual definition and generally are less attractive because shingle joints stand out more and they become discolored over the years. Sometimes roofing material was cut into patterns to accent the building design. These effects should be preserved and maintained in their original condition. The Building Code of the State of North Carolina requires that no more than two layers of roofing materials be applied to a residence. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-22 Many old houses have louvered wood gable vents with trim to match the windows. They should not be replaced with metal substitutes, and any new vents that are added should match the existing vents. Metal roofs should have watertight seams and should be maintained with an even, unbroken layer of metal paint. Gutters and downspouts should be cleaned often and kept in good repair. At the time of reroofing, adequate ventilation should be considered. Excessive heat build-up under the roof can greatly shorten the life of the shingles. Ventilators should be located at an inconspicuous place; placing them on porch roofs or roof slopes that face the street should be avoided. Low profile mechanical or power ventilators are best. Ridge vents and turbine ventilators are more noticeable. Soffit vents are permissible as long as the original soffit lumber is retained. Some old houses have louvered wood gable vents with trim that matches the windows. These vents should not be covered or replaced with metal louvers. Flashing makes watertight joints at junctions between roof and walls, around chimneys, vent pipes, and other protrusions through the roof. The source of most roof leaks is deteriorated or improperly installed flashing. Tar or roofing cement is an unacceptable substitute for properly installed flashing. Valley flashing is used where roofing materials join at different planes. As three-tab asphalt shingles have become more common, the process of weaving the asphalt shingle at roof valleys has become common practice. This practice has a less appealing appearance and also deteriorates more rapidly than metal flashing. Valley flashing material, consisting of copper, galvanized sheet metal, or aluminum with a baked enamel finish, is preferred over asphalt weaving. Gutters are important for roof drainage. If gutters are not draining properly, water can back up under the roof edge, causing deterioration at the eaves. Seamless gutters with a baked enamel finish are recommended. Downspouts should empty away from the building to keep water away from the foundation. Splash blocks made of stone, concrete, or slate can direct the water away from the building. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-23 ORIGINAL With dormer added. Dormer may be approved if it can be shown to be appropriate for the house. Guidelines C5-1. Original roof forms, pitches, rafter details, molding, trim, and soffit boards should be retained. C5-2. Historic roofing materials, such as clay tiles, slate, standing seam metal, wood shingles or embossed metal shingles, should be preserved if feasible.1 C5-3. Raising or lowering the roof pitch, or removing original features, such as dormers, turrets, balustrades, bargeboards, quarter round, cornices, brackets, weather vanes, or lightning rods are not allowed. C5-4. Features such as dormers or balustrades may be added if they are appropriate for the style of the building. C5-5. Deteriorated roof covering should be replaced with new materials that are compatible with the old in composition, size, and texture after reestablishing the structural stability of the roof. Replacement roofs should be dark in color. White or very light shingles are not acceptable. SIN G LE GA B LE M U LTIPLE G AB LES TR IPLE A G AB LE W ITH SHED D OR M ER C LIPPED GA B LE W ITH SHED DO R M ER S H IP W ITH D O RM ER S G AB LES O N H IP G AM BR ELL G AM BR ELL W ITH SH ED D OR M ER FLA T W ITH D EC O R ATIV E C O R NIC E Examples of roof forms found in the Historic Districts 1 Amended 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-24 C5-6. Specialty roofing materials, such as “mission tiles” or patterned slate, should not be replaced with composition shingles. C5-7. Exposed tarpaper rolls should not be used as roofing material. C5-8. Metal flashing should be installed behind siding or roofing and in the open valleys on roofs. The flashing should blend in color with the roof or chimney color. Roofing tar is not an acceptable substitute for properly installed metal flashing. C5-9. Roof ventilators, skylights, solar panels, and other mechanical items should be installed on rear slopes or other locations not easily visible from the street. C5-10. Built in gutters that are important to the architecture of the structure should be repaired rather than removed when they become deteriorated. C5-11. Gutters and downspouts should not conceal or interfere with architectural trim. 6. Architectural Metals Architectural metals found on historic structures include cast and wrought iron, pressed tin, and aluminum. Guidelines C6-1. Original architectural metals should be retained. The removal of these features often destroys the structure’s character and, therefore, is not recommended. C6-2. Cast iron may be cleaned by mechanical methods. Pressed tin and aluminum should be cleaned by the gentlest methods possible, such as detergent, water, and soft bristle brushes. 7. Siding and Trim Wood clapboard siding is the most common siding material found in historic districts. Clapboards are beveled boards that are thicker at the bottom edge, applied so they overlap by an inch or so. Other wood siding types include drop siding, flush siding, and board-and-batten. Wood shingles are also found on houses in historic districts. Wood siding should be maintained in a manner to enhance its inherent qualities. A regular maintenance program includes caulking and sealing, carpentry, cleaning, and painting. Any replacement siding should match the design and dimensions of the original. “Rough sawn” siding should be avoided because it will not give a smooth painted surface. The use of artificial siding to cover the original siding is generally not permitted in historic districts or on locally designated historic properties. Some of the drawbacks to artificial siding include: ! It conceals original building materials and alters details and scale of windows and door surrounds, corner boards, and cornices. It obscures the architectural details which characterize a historic structure. ! During the installation process, nail holes damage the materials and craftsmanship of the original siding. ! It hides damage from termites, rot, and moisture. The hidden wood siding will deteriorate rapidly as minor problems become serious and expensive. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-25 ! It traps moisture in the space created next to the wood of the house, increasing the chance of damage to the building. ! It is not a good insulator. Attics, floors, doors, and windows are the areas of greatest heat loss, not walls. The insulation value is negligible. ! It tends to dent and scratch. When damaged, it must be removed and replaced since it can not be repaired. ! Colored artificial siding eventually fades and mildews, so that it must be painted. ! Vinyl siding has much lower melting and flash points than wood can be hazardous. ! It lacks the warmth and charm of natural wood. In historic districts, a request to use artificial siding on new additions or new construction, where original wood siding is not being covered, will be carefully considered by the commission on a case-by-case basis. Particular attention will be paid to any special circumstance that may make the use of artificial siding prudent. In the case of additions, the commission will carefully scrutinize the effect of the artificial materials on the building’s historical and architectural integrity. Removal of artificial siding materials and restoration of the original siding can result in a dramatic change to the appearance of a structure and is strongly encouraged in historic districts.1 Guidelines C7-1. Damaged or deteriorated wall materials should be repaired whenever possible. C7-2. Replacement materials should match the original wall materials in size, shape, and texture. C7-3. Sandblasting and other abrasive treatments that can damage historic wall materials are not acceptable. Harsh chemical strippers which damage the surface or grain of the wood should not be used. (See section 13 page V-36, on paint removal) C7-4. The original siding should not be replaced or covered by artificial siding such as aluminum, vinyl, asphalt, asbestos, masonite, or pressboard that would not have been used on the original structure. C7-5. Wood shakes or shingles which are incongruous with the design of the building should not be used. C7-6. Sheets of plywood are unacceptable for use as siding material in historic districts. C7-7. The careful removal of artificial siding material and the restoration of the original siding is encouraged. Caution should be observed when removing any asbestos material, particularly that which is in a friable state. 1 Amended 2/8/00 APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-26 8. Fenestration The fenestration pattern of a building is the arrangement of doors and windows. The sizes of panes in a window reflect the style and sometimes the age of a building. Early American homes featured small panes of glass, usually in a twelve-over-twelve pattern. However, by the late nineteenth century, glass manufacturers were able to produce large sheets of glass so that many older homes in historic districts display windows of one- over-one or two-over-two patterns. Most Victorian buildings have windows that were tall and narrow. A “picture window” with a border of small square panes of colored glass is the trademark of the Queen Anne style. Colonial Revival windows have multiple pane divisions, often with six-over-six or six-over-one patterns. The Palladian window is a typical Colonial Revival element. It is a three-part window, with an arched-headed window flanked by two shorter square-headed windows. Bungalows and American Foursquares often have long narrow panes in the upper sash and a solid pane in the lower sash. Beveled or etched glass is often found in historic district homes. The window features and the decorative glass are an important part of the overall design scheme. Improper or insensitive treatment of the fenestration pattern of a historic district house can seriously detract from its character to the point that the house loses its original stylistic identity. Repairing the original windows in an older building is more appropriate and cost effective than replacing them with new ones. During the rehabilitation of a building, the fenestration pattern should not be altered. Wooden- framed windows are usually easy and inexpensive to repair. The sash may stick because they are warped or swollen with moisture, or because of paint build-up. The sash may not open properly because of broken sash cords. Getting them to work may be as simple as moving the stop molding out a bit, scraping off excess paint, and replacing the sash cord. If the sash is too loose, the stop may need to be moved in Reglazing, weather-stripping, and caulking will help to stop air leaks. Rotten wood can be rejuvenated by using wood consolidation products. If a window cannot be saved, the replacement should match the design, materials and dimensions of the original. (See Guidelines C8-1 - C8-5) Some manufacturers are producing wood replacement windows using double pane insulating glass and true divided muntins. However, the muntins are often larger than the original in order to support the weight of the glass. These, or any other replacement windows, will receive careful review by the commission on a case by case basis. Originally shutters served practical purposes. They provided ventilation when it rained during summer months and protected the window during storms. Today their original purpose has been forgotten and they are added to houses for ornamentation. Modern shutters often do not match the dimensions of the window and are often constructed of artificial materials such as vinyl or aluminum. Only wood shutters are acceptable in historic districts. Narrow, shutter-like trim pieces anchored flat to the sides of the building detract from the appearance of the structure and are not recommended. Late Victorian/Queen Anne ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-27 Early 20TH Century/Colonial Revival Bungalow/American Foursquare The front door is the focal paint of a historic district building and a key architectural feature. Original doors should be retained if at all possible. They are almost always constructed of heavy wood, and even if badly neglected, can usually be salvaged. If the original hardwood is intact, it can be cleaned and maintained to add special details to the building. With proper weather-stripping and good locks, old doors can be made energy efficient and secure. Late Victorian/Queen Anne ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-28 If the front door has been replaced in the past, a suitable door might be found in a salvage yard. A new door should fit the style of the house. Guidelines C8-1. Original window and door elements such as sash, glass, sills, frames, casings, hardware, weather- stripping, lintels, architrave’s, and shutters should be repaired and retained rather than replaced. Colonial Revival American Foursquare Bungalow ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-29 Examples of door styles that are not appropriate in the Historic Districts. C8-2. When the repair of a window or door is not feasible, the replacement should match as closely as possible with the original window or door in material, scale, character, and appearance. New windows or doors should have matching sash, glass, sills, frames, casings, and muntin patterns. New sash should be made of wood, not metal. Existing window casings and trim should be retained. C8-3. The pattern, arrangements, and dimensions of doors and windows on the principal elevations should be retained, unless restoring the appearance of the structure to its original design. On other facades, where not easily visible from the street, new openings should be proportionately the same as existing openings with matching elements. Window and door openings should not be enlarged or reduced to fit stock windows or doors. C8-4. Windows or doors with snap-in muntins should be avoided. They do not look real, do not cast a shadow like real muntins, and do not match the character of historic windows. C8-5. Jalousie windows and sliding windows are inappropriate. C8-6. Front doors in the historic district should be appropriate for the style of the house. Flat surfaced doors and those with conventional decorative windows should be avoided. A solid wood door is not a suitable replacement for an original door constructed of wood panels and glass. Doors may be painted bright colors for emphasis. C8-7. The doorway should not be blocked down to accept stock door sizes. Doors with snap-in grids, sliding glass doors, and louvered glass doors should be avoided. C8-8. Reflective or tinted glass is not appropriate where easily visible from a public right-of-way. C8-9. If the structure did not originally have shutters, they should not be added. Existing shutters and their hardware should be repaired and retained. Appropriate. Shut- ters fit window opening and are at- tached to window casing Inappropriate. Shutters do not fit window open- ing and are at- tached to siding. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-30 WINDOW FENESTRATION PATTERNS C8-10. If a shutter must be replaced, the new shutter should be made of wood and should match the original in size, shape, number of panels, and style. Metal or vinyl shutters should not be used. C8-11. Shutters should be attached to the window casing and not the siding. Shutters should cover the entire window when closed. Even if the shutters do not close, they should appear to. C8-12. Window greenhouses which are visible from the street are inappropriate to historic structures. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE 9. Storm Windows and Doors Storm windows and doors are considered necessary modern additions to historic district buildings. Storm windows with wooden surrounds painted to match or complement the colors of the house are encouraged. If screens or storm windows with aluminum frames are used, the frames should be painted or have a baked enamel finish. Some property owners prefer to install storm windows on the interior of the window frame. This is appropriate in historic districts, but special care should be taken to make sure that moisture does not accumulate between the storm window and the original window. This can cause damage to the wooden sills and surrounds. Guidelines C9-1. Original window and door elements should not be destroyed when storm windows or doors are installed. C9-2. Storm windows and doors should blend with the building rather than appear to be tacked on. The shape and general appearance should match the existing window or door as closely as possible. Storm doors should have full view glass with no meeting rails or muntins. Storm windows should have a meeting rail which aligns with the meeting rail of the window to which it is applied. C9-3. Raw metal storm window and door frames are not appropriate. The frames should be painted wood or painted or baked enamel finish aluminum. C9-4. When possible, interior storm windows are encouraged. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-31 10. Awnings Movable canvas awnings have been used for years to provide shade and help control temperatures by 8 to 15 degrees during the summer months. They can be raised in the winter when radiant heat from the sun will give free supplementary warming. Fabric awnings can still provide the same benefits today while adding color and interest to the house. Awnings are most appropriate for late and post-Victorian house styles, especially Queen Anne, Colonial Revival, Bungalow, and the many Period Revival styles. It is more appropriate to choose a color that compliments rather than exactly matches a residence. The most common awning colors were blues, reds, browns, greens, and tans. Striped awnings are most appropriate on Bungalows, Queen Anne style, and Spanish Revivals. Solid colors are preferred for Colonial Revivals. Guidelines C10-1. Awnings are not appropriate for window openings where there is evidence of the previous use of shutters. C10-2. Awnings should be canvas or acrylic. Metal awnings are inappropriate for any style other than post-World War II homes. C10-3. Awnings should generally be mounted within the window or entry1 opening, directly on the frame. If this is not possible, they should be attached just outside the opening. On masonry structures, attachments for awnings should be made in the mortar joints and not in the brick itself. C10-4. Awnings on windows, and porches should be appropriate in design, proportion, scale and color to the architectural style and period of the structure.2 11. Porches, Decks and Steps A distinguishing feature of most houses in historic districts is the front porch. Originally, the front porch kept the entrance dry and provided a place to escape the summer heat. Furnished with rocking chairs and wicker, the porch was an outdoor leisure area. Other accessories included canvas awnings, blinds made of canvas, wood or reeding, straw or hemp rugs, plant stands, and flower boxes. Entrances and steps serve as an important first view to the property and should be preserved as they were originally intended. Porches were embellished with details which reinforced the architectural style of the house. Machine carved posts, brackets, railings, spindlework, and sawnwork make up the “gingerbread” found on Queen Anne style houses. Classical columns and trimwork are often found on Neo-Classical and Colonial Revival style houses. Porches should be preserved in their original form as best as possible. Front porches should never be closed in for interior space. Since the side porch is not as prominent, an enclosure to create a sun parlor might be acceptable. All wood surfaces should be kept painted. The floor of the porch was originally built with a slight pitch to shed water. This pitch should be maintained and should run with the floorboard. Rear yard decks are considered incompatible additions to historic structures. Consideration should be given to a covered porch which may be a more appropriate addition to the rear of the structure. In the event that rear 1 Amended 2/8/00 2 Added 2/8/00 ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-32 House with original porch details replaced with metal substitutes. Same house with appropriate columns and railings and with metal awning removed. yard decks are installed, they should be constructed in a manner that preserves the historic character of the neighborhood. Guidelines C11-1. If built as part of the original structure, a porch and all of its features (decks, steps, handrails, balustrades, columns, brackets, spandrels, roofs) should remain in their original state. Porches and steps should not be stripped of any original material or architectural features. If a porch is a later addition, but has become an important part of the building, then the porch and all of its features should be retained. C11-2. New materials used to repair porches should match the design and dimensions of the original materials as closely as possible. C11-3. Repairs to porches using materials incompatible with the original materials are unacceptable; for example, metal supports should not be used as substitutes for wood columns, plywood as a substitute for beaded wood ceilings, or concrete as a substitute for tongue-and-groove wood flooring. C11-4. Porch restorations that involve the replacement of missing details such as steps, brackets, or balustrades should be based on historical documentation. Adding details to porches to create a false historical appearance is not allowed. C11-5. No porch should be enclosed if the historic character of the structure would be destroyed; for example, front porches should not be enclosed to create interior spaces. Whenever possible, existing infill should be removed to restore the original appearance. C11-6. Side porches may be enclosed to create sun porches if the design of the enclosure is compatible with the architecture of the structure. Sun porches should be designed so that they can be installed and removed without damage to the historic structure. C11-7. Original porch steps should be retained or the design and dimensions matched as closely as possible if repair or replacement is needed. Wood steps should always be painted to match the porch floor. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-33 Original Front porch closed in for interior space. Historic look of house has been lost. C11-8. Porches may be screened if the framing is recessed and the screening is placed behind columns or balustrades. Screening should be designed so that it can be removed without damage to the historic structure. C11-9. The use of artificial turf, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or similar materials are not recommended for covering or partially covering porch floors which are visible from the street. C11-10. When needed, handrails should match the porch balustrade if this architectural feature is present. C11-11. Decks should not be placed where they would require the removal of large, healthy trees. C11-12. Decks should be located on the rear facade of the house. Some decks, such as those on corner lots, may require vegetative screening to shield their visibility from the street. Original Acceptable. Side porch closed in with win- dows of a compatible design to make a “sun parlor”. Unacceptable. Side porch closed in with solid walls. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-34 C11-13. Decks should be incorporated into the facade of the house by screening under them with an architectural feature such as lattice, or with evergreen vegetation screening. C11-14. Decks should be compatible in scale with the structure to which it is at- tached. C11-15. Decks should be designed so that they may be built and removed with- out damage to the historic structure. The removal of historic building materials and features to accommodate the construction of a deck is unacceptable. PORCHES Decks are usually permitted at the rear of the house. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-35 Replacement porch railings to avoid Porch railings found in the His- toric Districts. If you are consid- ering adding a railing, pattern it after one of these that most closely fits the style of your house. PORCH RAILINGS ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-36 12. Exterior Colors Color was an element of the original design intent of an architect or builder; however, since early photographs were black and white, only tones and contrasts can be determined. Color chronology tests can determine the original color. This test involves the examination of paint scrapings under a microscope. Professional preservationists at the State Historic Preservation Office ([PHONE REDACTED]) can assist in this process. The style of the building is the major guideline for color. Queen Anne style houses may be appropriately painted in flamboyant colors, whereas earthy tones are favored for classical revival buildings. Many homes were painted white during the Depression because white homes were thought to sell more quickly. Therefore, even if an older individual remembers that a house was “always white,” it is wise to make paint scrapings or look for documentation describing the original colors. A good, appropriate exterior color combination can alter the entire appearance of a building. Buildings that have been perceived as mediocre have become points of interest because of good color combinations and paint jobs. In these cases, property owners have avoided using garish and bright colors that are inappropriate to the building or neighborhood. The Historic Preservation Commission does not regulate paint color. However, property owners are strongly encouraged to seek advice about paint colors from the Commission or knowledgeable professionals. Several basic principles should be considered in choosing colors for historic district homes. Trimwork such as corner boards, window and door casings, soffits, and fascia are often painted with a lower value or contrasting hue than the siding on most homes. Window sash and shutters are usually the darkest color on the house. Wood shingles should be stained dark colors, as was done originally. Where wood shingles and wood clapboard are used in combination, shingles should be darker than the siding. Wall and roof colors should be coordinated. Bright colors, large expanses of shiny metal and highly contrasting colors should be avoided. Guidelines C12-1. The placement of color should be appropriate to the architectural style of the structure. C12-2. The placement of color should provide contrast between different materials, such as shingles and siding, and architectural elements, such as trim and soffits, if contrasting colors are appropriate to the style of the structure. C12-3. Sandblasting or other abrasive surface preparation methods that can damage historic materials is not allowed. C12-4. Materials such as brick, stone, wood shingles, and certain metals, which have historically been unpainted, should not be painted. C12-5. Stained wood surfaces should not be painted. 13. Paint Removal and Painting Techniques Although usually thought of as a decorative element, paint is primarily a protective treatment that allows wood to shed water and therefore protect the building. Painting should not be considered unless absolutely necessary. The build-up of many layers of paint becomes a problem in itself. Dingy paint can be freshened with a mild detergent. Light scraping and sanding with touch-up painting can extend a paint job. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-37 At some point, a total repainting will be needed. Surface preparation takes time and is tedious but is worth the expense, since it extends the life of a paint job. For paint which has cracked, blistered, “alligatored”, or where paint of 1/16” thickness or more has accumulated, the surface should be scraped with a pull-type scraper followed by handsanding. Houses painted before 1950 probably have layers of lead-based paint which should be treated as a poisonous material. For protection, a dust mask, goggles, a respirator, and skin protection may be needed. It is not necessary to remove paint that is still sound. If stripping is necessary, the electric heat plate is the safest method and effective on thick paint build-up. Blow torches or, to some extent, heat guns are less safe because toxic fumes are released and an undetected fire could ignite in the wall cavity. Blow torches also scorch the wall. Heat guns work well on irregular surfaces. Chemical strippers are safer to use, but they can damage wood surfaces if not properly applied and leave residue disposal problems. Therefore, chemical treatments should be left to professionals. Abrasive techniques are not recommended. Rotary or disc sanders leave swirl marks in the wood. Belt sanders are less effective. Sandblasting and water blasting erode the soft porous fibers of the wood and leave a surface with ridges and valleys similar to driftwood. Prepared surfaces should be washed with a mildew killer and then thoroughly rinsed and allowed to dry. Wood that has been exposed to the weather for any length of time may not hold paint and should be treated with a preservative before painting. Bare surfaces and chalking paint should be covered with an oil-base primer. Joints should be sealed with caulk, and holes and cracks should be filled with putty. Two top coats of either latex or oil-based paint are usually adequate. Latex should not be used directly over old oil-based paint, but it can be used over an oil based primer. Guidelines C13-1. Strong chemical paint strippers which can permanently damage the surface should be avoided. C13-2. Sandblasting and other abrasive surface preparation methods that can damage historic materials are not allowed. C13-3. Removing all old paint should be avoided unless there is a strong reason to do so, such as an obscured architectural detail, paint peeling, or cracking. 14. Mechanical Systems Installation, rehabilitation, or replacement of mechanical systems such as heating and air conditioning units, television antennas, electrical service equipment, gas meters, fuel tanks, solar energy equipment, and satellite dish antennas should be planned to minimize changes to the appearance of the structure. Conformance with local building codes and utility company standards is required for the installation, upgrading, or replacement of building systems. Guidelines C14-1. Mechanical services should be installed in areas and spaces that will require the least possible alteration to the plan, materials, and appearance of a building. C14-2. Utility meters and heating and air conditioning equipment should be located at the rear of a structure if feasible. Mechanical equipment which can be seen from the street should be screened with shrubbery or appropriate fencing. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-38 C14-3. Exposed ductwork or piping, fuel tanks, plumbing vents, solar collectors, and satellite dishes should not be visible from the street. C14-4. Mechanical equipment should not be located in front of the midpoint of the side of a structure. INAPPROPRIATE APPROPRIATE WITH SCREENING APPROPRIATE Install mechanical equipment in areas which will require the least possible alteration. 15. Structural Systems Exterior stairs or handicapped ramps are often required by the building code when old houses are converted to apartments or office uses. If not carefully planned, they can be an eyesore. Guidelines C15-1. Fire escapes and access ramps should be designed so that there is minimal visual impact on the historic structure and so that they can be built or removed without impairing the original fabric of the structure. C15-2. Exterior fire escapes are not permitted for existing structures, except where more adequate exit facilities cannot be provided. C15-3. Access ramps that are visible from the public right-of-way should be constructed so that the scale, materials, and details are compatible with the historic structure. They should be painted to match or complement the historic structure. They should be of simple, compact design and should project from the building as little as possible. C15-4. Fire escapes should be placed in an inconspicuous location, preferably on the rear of the building. They are generally not allowed for an exposed elevation, such as the exposed side of a building on a corner lot. C15-5. When possible, existing exterior stairs should be relocated from the front to the rear of buildings when these stairs are not original to the structures. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-39 INAPPROPRIATE APPROPRIATE MOST APPROPRIATE Exterior stairs should be located on the rear or side of the structure. D. Additions To Existing Buildings Whenever possible, new additions to historic district buildings should be done in a manner that, if they were removed in the future, the essential form and integrity of the original building would not be impaired. Additions should be kept to a minimum. Guidelines D1-1. An addition should be located to the rear or in an inconspicuous location at the side of a historic structure. It should not be attached to the front of the building. D1-2. An addition should be designed and constructed so that the character defining features of the historic structure are not radically changed, obscured, damaged, or destroyed. D1-3. Structural additions should be subordinate to and compatible with the original building form. They should not be taller than the original building. D1-4. Imitation of an earlier style or period of architecture than the historic structure is not allowed. D1-5. Structural additions should be compatible with the original building in terms of materials, scale, proportion, shape, detailing, roof form, windows, etc. D1-6. Removal of or alterations to important architectural details on the historic structure to accommodate an addition is not acceptable. D1-7. Windows in additions should be similar to those in the original buildings in their proportions and spacing. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-40 D1-8. Foundations, eaves, and other major horizontal elements should generally align buildings and their additions. D1-9. Rough-sawn, stained, or vertical wood siding should not be used on additions. D1-10. Additions, such as greenhouses, solariums, and balconies, should not be placed on principal elements of the historic structure. D1-11. Additions must comply with dimensions and setbacks required by City Code. Any non- conformity to City Code requires a variance from the Board of Adjustment. E. New Construction 1. Introduction The objective of the new construction guidelines is not to prevent change, but to ensure that future construction projects respect the general character of the historic district neighborhoods. New construction can be an attractive element in the historic district and affords the opportunity to eliminate vacant lots and missing gaps in the urban fabric. New buildings do not have to copy historic building designs, but they should adhere to established neighborhood design principles. Contemporary styles are encouraged if the styles blend comfortably with the neighborhood. Buildings should always reflect the point in time when they were constructed. Applicants for Certificates of Appropriateness for new construction and their architects are strongly urged to meet with the Planning Department staff and the Design Review Committee of the Historic Preservation Commission at the earliest stage of the design process, so that potential conflicts with the guidelines can be addressed. This will save time and money in the long run. New construction will be evaluated in terms of building site and building characteristics. 2. Building Site Building site refers to the placement of the structure on the lot and includes the following considerations: a. SETBACK Setback refers to the distance from the front wall of the building to the street. Setback should establish a framework of order and coherence. The use of continuous setback pattern ensures a strong and continuous streetscape. Setbacks in historic districts vary, but generally the houses are close to the street. Guidelines E2a-1. New buildings should have setbacks similar to existing historic buildings along the street. E2a-2. The City Code requires a minimum setback of 40 feet from the center line of the street which the building faces. Placement of a building closer to the street will require a variance from the Board of Adjustment. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-41 New buildings should be set back similarly as their neighbors. b. SPACING Spacing is the distance between adjacent buildings. Closely spaced buildings have a strong spatial tension or attraction between them. A regular pattern of spacing adds strength and continuity to a streetscape. Guidelines E2b-1. The spacing of new construction should conform to that of existing structures. E2b-2. The City Code requires a minimum side yard setback of ten (10) feet except when a side yard is on a corner lot which requires a greater setback. Placing a structure closer to the lot line than City Code allows requires a variance from the Board of Adjustment. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE OLDER BUILDING NEWER BUILDING ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-42 c. ORIENTATION Orientation refers to the angle or alignment of the main facade with the street. Throughout the historic districts, the main facades are parallel to the street. Guidelines E2c-1. The primary facade of a new structure should face the street. E2c-2. Buildings should not be sited at unusual angles or with side walls facing the street. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE d. LOT COVERAGE Lot coverage is a measure of the density of developed land along each block front and for each lot. Guidelines E2d-1. New construction should have a lot coverage similar to that of existing buildings in the respective district. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-43 e. TOPOGRAPHY The historic districts have varied and attractive topographical features such as rolling hills and mature vegetation. Guidelines E2e-1. New construction should respect the existing topography and vegetation on the site. E2e-2. Large scale grading or fill to level a sloping building or parking site is not acceptable. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE Major reshaping of land contours is not recommended. f. LANDSCAPING Landscaping is the key to a successful construction project. In historic districts, vegetation is well established. Landscaping is essential if new buildings are to blend in with their surroundings. Guidelines E2f-1. Existing trees and historic landscape features, such as retaining walls, should be incorporated into the landscape plan for new construction projects. E2f-2. Large trees that must be removed should be replaced with trees similar in type. E2f-3. New shade trees should be started, especially along street fronts and parking areas. E2f-4. During construction, mature trees should be protected. Protective fencing should be installed around tree protection areas prior to any land disturbance. The protected area around trees should include all land within the canopy area. Construction site activities such as parking, material storage, dirt stockpiling, and concrete “wash out” should take place outside the protection areas. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-44 APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE Main entrances should face the street, and parking should be located to the rear. Existing trees, stone walls, and shrubbery should be retained whenever possible. E2f-5. Front yards should be grassed and bordered with shrubbery and/or low fences and walls. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE E2f-6. Also see pages V-4 – V-5 for recommendations on landscaping. g. MISCELLANEOUS Guidelines E2g-1. Parking for new construction projects should be located at the rear of buildings. E2g-2. Site lighting for new construction projects should be compatible with the pedestrian character of the historic district. E2g-3. Utilities and mechanical equipment should be placed in inconspicuous locations or screened with fences. E2g-4. See sections on parking areas (page V-10), site lighting (page V-11), and mechanical systems (page V-37) for additional recommendations. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-45 3. Building Characteristics Building characteristics are defined by the components that give the building form and include the following considerations: a. SCALE Scale refers to the size of the construction units and their architectural details in relation to the size of man. Scale is also determined by the relationship of a building mass to open space. Guidelines E3a-1. Human scale units of construction are most appropriate. Oversize or monumental architecture should be avoided. E3a-2. New construction should incorporate architectural components that can be used to create scale such as porches, trimwork, and details. INAPPROPRIATE Scale of elements of the new construction should be compatible with existing buildings. b. HEIGHT Height consistency is an important factor which contributes to the character of an area. Most blockfaces in the historic districts contain a mixture of one and two story structures. Almost all houses are built on raised foundations which contribute to the height of the building. Many ceiling heights are nine or ten feet. Guidelines E3b-1. The height of a new building should relate to the prevailing height along a street. APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-46 E3b-2. Slab foundations on grade are usually not acceptable for new buildings because they distort the height relation to old buildings. c. FORM The historic style or form of buildings in the historic districts range from simple rectangular boxes to complex interplays of offsets and projections. Many historic district neighborhoods feature large houses on narrow lots. These large houses display a vertical form that is emphasized by high ceilings, tall roofs, and vertically oriented windows. Bungalows tend to be more earth-bound by being contained under sweeping roofs and porches supported by blocky columns. The roof plays an important role in defining form, and many roof styles are found in the historic districts. Many roofs feature bracketed eaves, open rafters, or classical cornices with dentil moldings. Most roofs have generous overhangs. Guidelines E3c-1. The general plan and form of a new building should relate to the form of nearby historic buildings along the street. E3c-2. The roof of a new building should relate to the roofs of neighboring buildings in type, pitch, and materials. Roofing materials should be compatible with those of existing structures. INAPPROPRIATE Roof type and pitch for new construction should conform to that of existing buildings. E3c-3. If possible, new residential structures should have porches or porticos. INAPPROPRIATE New construction should be compatible in basic shape and form with existing buildings. E3c-4. Pitched roofs without overhangs should be avoided. d. OPENINGS Buildings in historic districts display a variety of openings ranging from attic vents to large composite windows and doors. In a sequence of building forms, the use of similarly proportioned openings establishes the relatedness of structures. Openings which vary significantly within proposed new ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-47 construction from that which exists in surrounding areas will have a disruptive effect on the entire character of the historic district. Guidelines E3d-1. The pattern, arrangement, type, design, materials, and proportions of openings (windows and doors) should be similar to those of nearby historic structures. E3d-2. The ratio of wall space to adjoining openings in a new building should be similar to that in nearby historic structures. E3d-3. Frames in masonry buildings should be recessed in openings. Frames in wood buildings should have raised casing with dimensions similar to those found in historic buildings. E3d-4. Vinyl cladding and unfinished aluminum are inappropriate finish materials for windows in a new building. E3d-5. Snap-in muntins in windows in a new building should be avoided. e. MATERIALS AND TEXTURES In historic districts, the existing dominant building materials for a given streetscape may be wood siding, brick, or a combination of these materials. Also, other materials such as stone or stucco may be used. Roofing materials may be asphalt shingles, tin, or slate. In some cases a mixture of building and roofing materials adds variety to the area, but it is essential that these mixtures do not become chaotic. Guidelines E3e-1. Building materials and surface textures should be compatible with those of surrounding structures. E3e-2. Materials such as steel, cast stone, concrete, hardboard siding, and stucco may be considered for a new building if they are used in a manner that is compatible with the construction techniques used for historic buildings in the district. E3e-3. Materials such as rough sawn wood and vinyl or aluminum siding, that are substantially different in character and appearance from historic materials should not be used in new construction. INAPPROPRIATE Building materials for new construction should be compatible with surrounding structures. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-48 APPROPRIATE INAPPROPRIATE Note that although different materials are often used on the same building, they change at the floor levels rather than by building face. f. DETAILS Contemporary designers have not been oriented toward the wealth of decorative details that were the hallmarks of historic district buildings. Blatant imitations that apply modern-day interpretations of details without understanding the original style often result in buildings that look out of place among historic district structures. Examples of such imitations include “split-level Colonial” or “fast-food Victorian”. A careful look at the existing level of architectural details on surrounding buildings is essential to creating compatible new buildings in a historic district. The level of detail that occurs with a group of Queen Anne style houses is different from that within a group of bungalows. Finishing details should be given special attention. Quality treatment of corner trims, window and door trims, moldings, corbelling, and belt cornices can add great value to a building and help relate it to its neighbors. Guidelines E3f-1. New construction should display a level of detail similar to that of neighboring historic district buildings. For example, blank facades introduced into an area of detailed buildings will disrupt the established character of the historic streetscape. INAPPROPRIATE Architectural components of new construction should be compatible with surrounding structures. E3f-2. Architectural design elements must be compatible with the new building as a unit as well as the surrounding historic structures. ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-49 F. Moving Buildings The moving of a historic building should be considered a “last resort” alternative to the demolition of a structure. Moving a structure usually destroys the original context of the building and may result in the substantial loss of original building material. Sometimes the moving of a building becomes necessary as part of a revitalization plan. If a significant building is surrounded by an incompatible environment, it can sometimes be relocated to a more enhancing environment. This activity might, in addition to saving the building, increase its real estate value. Since building moving is a complicated and time-consuming process, it should not be undertaken until every aspect of the project has been considered and evaluated. Environmental, architectural, and moving questions as well as zoning and building code requirements, parking regulations, handicapped access, and fire restrictions must be studied. If moving a structure is warranted, every effort should be made to move the building intact as a single unit. Every effort should be made to protect the integrity of the building during the move, especially if partial disassembly is required. The City Building Inspector should be consulted before any move is undertaken. Guidelines F-1. A proposed relocation within a historic district should not have a detrimental effect on the historical aspects of other properties in the historic district. It is not recommended that structures located in historic districts be moved outside the boundaries of the said district. F-2. The proposed relocation site should not possess historical significance that would be adversely affected by the intrusion of the structure. F-3. The selection of a route to be taken for relocating a structure inside a historic district should take into consideration the impact on significant natural vegetation, such as mature trees. F-4. The site for a relocated building should be suitable in terms of building spacing, setback, orientation, height, scale, and massing. F-5. The relocated building should be compatible with the style and period of other buildings along the street. F-6. The site of the relocated building should be landscaped in a manner that is consistent with the character of the historic district. F-7. Important architectural features should be retained when a building is relocated. F-8. The guidelines for new construction should be followed when buildings are relocated (pages V-40 – V-48). ---PAGE BREAK--- Design Review Manual Design Review Guidelines Page V-50 G. Demolition Demolition of significant structures within the historic districts or of designated historic properties is discouraged. While the Historic Preservation Commission cannot deny a Certificate of Appropriateness for demolition, the Commission can delay the demolition of a structure for up to a period of 365 days. During this period, alternate methods for preserving the structure will be explored. The Commission will consider if the building can be moved, if it contributes to the historic character of the neighborhood, if there are potential owners willing to restore the building, if the building can be adapted to serve its owners’ needs, or if the building is structurally feasible for reuse. The Commission will make it widely known that a significant building is threatened with demolition and that alternatives are being sought. In the case of intrusive structures or those with little architectural value, the Commission may waive all or part of the delay period. In making this determination, the Commission will carefully weigh the value of the structure to the neighborhood setting. If approval for demolition is granted or if the delay period has expired, the following five guidelines must be met. Guidelines G-1. A permanent record of the structure should be made prior to demolition. Photographs and other documentation which describe any architectural features of the structure, important landscape features, or the archaeological significance of the site will become part of the permanent files of the Historic Preservation Commission. G-2. Once all possibilities for saving the structure have been exhausted, usable building materials should be salvaged from the structure. G-3. A demolition permit must be obtained from the City of Burlington Inspections Department. G-4. Any large trees or other important landscape features should be protected during the demolition. G-5. If the site is to remain vacant for more than 60 days, it should be cleared of debris, re-seeded, and maintained in a manner consistent with other properties in the historic district. H. Archaeology An “archaeological resource” is defined as that material evidence of past human activity which is found below the surface of the ground, portions of which may be visible above the ground surface. The property owner is urged to contact the Historic Preservation Commission upon the discovery of any archaeological resource. Guidelines H-1. Any archaeological resource lying within a historic district or on the site of a local historic landmark cannot be materially altered, restored, moved, or demolished unless a Certificate of Appropriateness has been issued. H-2. Every reasonable effort should be made to protect and preserve archaeological resources affected by or adjacent to any project.