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sustainable upgr ades for Historic Homes in Albany, NY Introduction Did you know that old houses can be as energy efficient as new construction? This brochure will help you identify where your older home may be losing energy, and what improvements you can make to improve overall efficiency. Many of these energy smart improvements can be made by the homeowner or tenant. In certain instances, an energy consultant or professional contractor should be hired for larger projects or to ensure all of your building’s systems are in safe, working order. “The greenest building is the one already built.” CARL ELEFANTE Before making any major alterations to your historic building, identify the condition of inherently-energy efficient features your home already has. For example, shutters, storm windows, awnings, porches, vents, skylights and light wells, transoms and naturally-lit hallways are early examples of energy efficiency features common in older homes. Repairing these features is the first step to making your older home more efficient. A Guide for Owners of Historic Homes in Albany Introduction Windows & Doors Exterior Structures Insulation & Air Sealing Heating & Cooling Going the Extra Mile You can learn more about these types of procedures by visiting www.website.com SUSTAINABLE UPGRADES FOR HISTORIC HOMES IN ALBANY Air Leak Detection Methods To conduct your own investigation: Shine a flashlight at night over all potential gaps while a partner observes the house from outside. Large cracks will show up as rays of light. Shut a door or window on a dollar bill. If you can pull the dollar bill out without it drag- ging, you’re losing energy. Retain or revitalize original historic features. Your historic home was built to be efficient. These features may have been removed, painted over or replaced as new lighting, heating and cooling systems were developed. With high utility costs, many are going back to these simple practices. Going the Extra Mile Get an Energy Audit for a professional assessment of the entire building and all energy-using equipment. Written results will provide valuable information including on costs for improvements and relative savings. Common Locations for Exterior Air Leaks: • Building corners and other locations where different building materials meet • Penetrations for water faucets, pipes and wires, vents and fans • Intersection of siding and chimneys • Perimeter of windows and doors • Intersection of the foundation and wall above . • Mail slots • Electrical and gas service entrances Common Location for Interior Air Leaks: • Baseboards and flooring edges • Electrical outlets and switch plates • Fireplace dampers • Attic hatches • Window frames & doors • Wall or window mounted air conditioning units Identify Air Leaks & Infiltration Energy savings from reducing drafts alone can range from 5% - 30% per year: Movement or rattling at windows, or daylight visible around window or door frames, indicates possible air leaks. Most leaks can be sealed with caulking or weather stripping. “Amid our green-building boom, necting the old in favor of the new just might cost us dearly.” WAYNE CURTIS PRESERVATION, NATIONAL TRUST FOR HISTORIC PRESERVATION MAGAZINE SPECIAL THANKS Controlling drafts and air leaks is the number one way to improve the energy efficiency of your old house! Leaks can compromise energy efficiency by up to 50%! Hang window shades and curtains to keep out cold air and prevent the loss of hot air. $ Replace showerheads and faucets with low-flow models that maintain water pressure while reducing the amount of water being used. Turn off lights and appliances when not in use. Upgrade the light bulbs you use most often in your home with energy-saving LEDs and CFLs. (hint: start with the kitchen). In less than 7 years of use, a compact fluorescent bulb can save you $48.50. That’s $7/year per bulb! Install and set a programmable thermostat. For each degree you lower your thermostat in winter, you can save up to 5% on your heating bill. Use space heaters and air conditioners sparingly, and correctly sized to the space being conditioned. These appliances add hundreds of dollars to your bill every season. Each degree above 75 degree your air conditioner is set to saves 3% of the energy used to cool your home. Install an ENERGY STAR® ceiling fan to reduce the need for air conditioning. In the winter, some fans require reversing in order to circulate warm air downward. Set your hot water heater for 120 degrees Fahrenheit, or only as hot as needed. Consider point-of-use heaters in bathrooms . Minor Upgrades with a Big Payback The following tips can make a big impact on your energy cost savings. ---PAGE BREAK--- Chimney: An average of 14% of air you have paid to heat escapes through the fireplace. Make sure the damper inside the chimney is closed and tight fitting. Keep the chimney within and outside your home in good condition. Un-monitored cracks or failing mortar joints between bricks can turn a small fix into a major headache. To prevent heat loss around chimney and furnace flues, and water entry into your building, use metal flashing to cover any gaps and high temperature caulk to fill any gaps. Foundation: Seal the perimeter along the top of the basement wall where stone, concrete, or brick contacts wood using expanding foam or caulk. Roof Ventilation: To release trapped hot air in the warmer months, open windows if they already exist. As part of future roofing projects, consider adding new roof vents. Solar Panels: South facing roofs can receive solar panels that can minimize or eliminate electrical bills. Contact a local retailer to determine if a solar installation is worth considering for your home and purchasing and leasing options. Did you know that windows account for only 5-10% of energy lost in an older building? Due to the high cost of new windows, window replacement should not be the first choice of home owners. Upgrade your storm windows or install new storms: Properly fitting storm windows are a fairly inexpensive solution with great energy-saving benefits and significantly shorter payback pe- riods as compared to replacement windows. The payback period for a single-pane storm window is 4 ¼ years vs 41 ½ years for replacing a single-pane glass window with an insulated replacement window. Remember that inexpensive replacement windows cannot be repaired and will need re- placement every 10-15 years. Compare this with original wood windows which can be repaired and last centuries if properly maintained. Glazing and Caulking: Window sash should be periodically re-glazed or caulked to prevent air leaks. Caulking should be used on both the interior and exterior to form a tight seal with the doorsill. [PR23] Weather Stripping: For both doors and windows, tight weather stripping and the installation of interior or exterior storms can reduce air leaks. Weather stripping may be felt, rolled vinyl, metal, foam or plastic: choose a long lasting material to maximize the benefit. Door Thresholds: At exterior doors, install door thresholds to seal bottom gaps. Where to Insulate? The roof or attic level is generally the first recommended place to install insulation, since over 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof. Remember to secure and seal any interior attic hatches. To avoid moisture problems, do not block any existing vents at the roof or upper wall areas. Exterior walls are also important, although more complicated and often involve other exterior or interior improvements. To protect against damage due to trapped moisture and condensation, work with reputable installers to determine your options. Generally, “breathable” insulation materials are recommended to prevent the build-up of unwanted moisture and dampness. Make sure all areas to be insulated are air and water tight, and establish an annual inspection to look for any potential sources of water entry. Types of Insulation: Insulation varies by material (mineral wool, fiberglass, cellulose, foam), the form in which it is purchased (bags, rolls, boards, etc.). The choice varies by existing con- ditions in your home, whether or not areas are accessible, and other preferences associated with performance. • Batts and Rolls are suited for standard spacing at walls and floors, and can be a rela- tively inexpensive and a do-it-yourself option. • Loose fill can be installed in attics without floors, or by removing some floor boards in order to install. It is less common for use in walls, in part due to a tendency to settle. • Rigid foam board can be a good option for ceilings, attic floors, and basement walls as the material is relatively easy to install, and has a high insulating value with little thickness. • Spray foams are most often installed by contractors. Although foams have high ther- mal properties (R-value), they are often not recommended for older buildings due to their lack of breathability. Windows & Doors SUSTAINABLE UPGRADES FOR HISTORIC HOMES IN ALBANY FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT HISTORICALBANY.ORG Exteriors Insulation & Air Sealing Equipment should be checked annually to ensure it is working efficiently and safely. For hot water heat with radiators, bleed the air out twice a year for optimal performance and install heat-resistant reflectors between radiators and walls to reflect heated air back into the room. For ducted heating or cooling systems, regularly replace filters and vacuum out vents and ducts. Heating, Cooling & Appliciances Most air infiltration happens at window and door openings, fireplaces, roof edges, foundations, and plumbing vents. Because equipment that heats and cools your home and provides hot water, and appliances such as washers, dryers, and refrigerators, use lots of energy, big savings can be achieved through maintenance and careful selection when replacement is necessary. Sash Locks: Make sure that all sash locks are present and can secure the upper and lower sash in place. Window casing or trim should be secure and airtight. Air Circulation: All windows, transoms and doors should be operable to encourage desirable air flow. Instead of using electricity to run an air conditioner, generate airflow between rooms by opening windows and doors and using fans. Natural Light: Take advantage of original features that allow light in such as glazed doors, window transoms and partial glass partitions. In summer, use shades to minimize interior heat build-up. Change window decor with the seasons, light fabrics in spring and summer, and heavier fabrics during winter months. Insulate ductwork and piping to improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling systems by as much as 20% Use supplemental space heaters and air conditioners sparingly, and make sure they are the right size for the space to be conditioned. When replacement is the best option, select an Energy Star rated product, which may use up to 40% less energy than a standard model. The ‘Resources’ section of this brochure identi- fies numerous grant programs and tax incentives available** through the City of Albany and the State of New York to help offset the cost of a new, energy efficient unit. Heat loss through your home’s walls and ceilings represents a large percentage of your energy bills. If your home’s insulation has not changed since the time of construction, it is time to upgrade. Air leaving house Air entering house Common Home Air Leaks